Silver Jewelry Design · 2022
String in the Tail Bangle
by Mandy Morris
- A' Design Award 2022 Silver Winner in Jewelry Design
- Awarded April 15, 2022
- CLIENT: Werk
- Estimated Number of Design Views: 35,182
- Verification code 21E73C795F · Verify this award
About String in the Tail Bangle
String in the Tail is a bangle that also serves as a bracelet. The design combines figurative and abstract elements inspired by the movement of the Siamese fighting fish. A three strand string of pearls with a gold bead forms an adjustable catch, so the length can be changed to fit the wrist. The piece is made entirely by hand from reused 18 carat white and yellow gold. Natural yellow diamonds are set against white diamonds, and the pearls rest softly against the skin. Hand carving shapes the flowing fin details.
String in the Tail Bangle by Mandy Morris exemplifies the contemporary renaissance in sculptural jewelry design, where technical mastery converges with conceptual imagination to produce objects that transcend mere adornment and enter the realm of wearable art. The piece appears to draw inspiration from natural forms, perhaps the graceful defensive posture of the scorpion suggested by its title, yet transforms this reference into an abstract meditation on movement, balance, and material contrast. The designer demonstrates exceptional command of multiple goldsmithing techniques, integrating hand-carved feather textures into white gold elements while establishing luminous pavé channels that follow the organic contours of the sculptural form. The chromatic strategy proves particularly sophisticated, orchestrating a dialogue between warm yellow gold and cool white metal that finds resolution in the neutral spectrum of the pendant pearls, whose cream, pink, and silver-grey tones provide chromatic bridges between the metallic extremes. Technical achievement is evident in the articulation of the cascading strands, where graduated spheres of both textured gold and lustrous pearl create rhythmic sequences that would animate with the wearer's movement, introducing temporal dimension to the static object. The concentrated setting of yellow stones at the compositional heart establishes a focal luminosity that anchors the sweeping metalwork while providing chromatic intensity. One might observe affinities with Art Nouveau's celebration of organic form and flowing line, yet the piece maintains a contemporary sensibility in its bold sculptural presence and confident asymmetry. The integration of pearls, traditionally associated with lunar femininity and oceanic origins, with the terrestrial reference of the scorpion creates an intriguing symbolic dialogue between water and earth, softness and strength. Viewers are invited to consider how jewelry might embody natural energies and protective symbolism while simultaneously celebrating the transformative power of skilled craft upon precious materials.
Press Kit
- Unique Properties
- A unique design combining figurative and abstract elements .The piece looks like a bangle but is also part bracelet with a 3 strand string of pearls as an adjustable catch.This piece is also completely hand made from reused gold with natural yellow and white diamonds and pearls.
- Dimensions & Packaging
- 65 x 33mm for the cuff section using 33 grams of 18ct white and 18ct yellow yellow gold.
Diamond content -1.56ct of intense/ fancy natural yellow round brilliant cut diamonds
and 1 x 0.30ct natural yellow round brilliant cut diamond
and 1.59ct of F/vs white round brilliant cut diamonds Total diamond weight-3.15ct
with 22x pearls and gold bead string feature catch. - Production Technology
- Made from repurposed 18ct white gold using traditional jewellery making skill with new lazer welding techniques in order to mix the carved fi details with the clean straight diamond set edges. Enhanced metal carving skills in order to create the fluidity of the fin shapes that were not too thin .Difficulties occurred in selecting a perfect 156 matching natural yellow diamonds out of 450 diamonds. The catch took some consideration so the bangle can be adjusted.
- Project Duration
- Designed January 2021 completed-april 2021in York uk .
exhibited at Goldsmith hall ,London in May 2021 and winner of 4 craftmanship and design awards including The Boodles award for fine jewellery. - Operation Flow
- bangle has a an adjustable string of pearls which creates length to fit on the wrist and adjusted to required length.The wearer gets the pearls soft touch next to the skin and the playful element of adjusting the strands.
- Research
- Research spent time studying the movement and decoration of siamese fighting fish and many hours sketching the layout of the design by hand drawing at scale. Lots of time spent perfecting the hand carving skill for the fin detail and silver prototype for the catch.
- Inspiration
- The fluid movement and eye catching flamboyance of the Siamese fighting fish , so hypnotising they are like dancers and wanted to create a piece that was flamboyant and captured the movement and flow, making the metal seem light , almost molten which is then turned into wristwear that is aesthetically stunning but also playful with the moveable string of pearl which is also the catch.I try to combine reality with abstract design.
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