Iron Jewelry Design · 2024
Kashmir Ring
- A' Design Award 2024 Iron Winner in Jewelry Design
- Awarded April 15, 2024
- CLIENT: Eleonora Federici Jewelry
- Estimated Number of Design Views: 18,530
- Verification code 2898F12AD6 · Verify this award
About Kashmir Ring
Inspired by the Kashmir paisley pattern, reflects the vibrant fabrics of the Middle East, particularly India. Crafted to convey the magic and spiritual charm of India, it embodies the essence of a Kashmir shawl in a three-dimensional form. Although it falls into the category of dome rings, its design balances positive and negative spaces, creating a delicate equilibrium between complexity and simplicity. Despite its size, its ideal weight and volume distribution ensure it is easily wearable for everyday occasions. Materials: 18K gold, diamonds, blue sapphire, citrine, and red garnet.
Press Kit
- Unique Properties
- While this ring generally falls into the category of domed rings, it displays an unusual interplay of positive and negative spaces, where the void becomes an integral part of the design, creating a decoration that balances complexity and simplicity in a delicate equilibrium. Despite its size, the ring is perfectly wearable and comfortable. The design ensures that the sides of the shank are not too thick or uncomfortable. It was created for the modern, strong woman looking for a statement ring.
- Dimensions & Packaging
- The ring can be housed in a box measuring 26.30mm x 28.30mm x 39.40 mm. The ring is made of 18 Kt yellow gold set with the following gemstones: 1 oval Sapphire, 11 round brilliant cut diamonds, 1 round orange Topaz, 1 emerald cut red Garnet. Total weight: 28 grams.
- Tags
- jewelry design, high-end jewelry, Kashmir, italian jewelry design, unique jewelry, one-of-a-kind jewelry, custom made jewelry, made in Italy, eleonora federici, award winning jewelry designer
- Production Technology
- This model was born out of inspiration and literally grew while carving wax with my own hands. The design flowed naturally, each curve leading seamlessly to the next. While the idea existed in my head, the handwork clarified my vision. It was made using the traditional lost wax technique: the original wax prototype is encased and then melted, leaving a hollow mould that is filled with 18Kt yellow gold. The pure design challenge was to seamlessly translate the elegance of Kashmir fabric into a three dimensional version, avoiding chaos, monotony or predictability.
- Design Challenge
- Technically speaking, making the wax model was the most arduous task. The voluminous wax model with an average thin thickness and empty spaces made handling and maintaining its integrity a challenge. The model was then cast in 18K yellow gold using the lost wax technique. Finally, I recreated the model in CAD to produce the video, which gives anyone who cannot see it in person the opportunity to get a better 3D understanding of it.
- Project Duration
- The project started in Pavia in January 2020 and concluded in Pavia in December 2020.
- Operation Flow
- This ring possesses a distinctive feature not commonly found in statement or cocktail rings: its ease of wear, proper weight and volume distribution, all while maintaining the necessary thickness for durability, making it a wearable piece throughout the day and for any occasion. Additionally, it is highly comfortable, as the design ensures that the shank's sides are neither excessively thick nor bulging. In fact, an important aspect of my design is always the anatomic-like fit.
- Research
- My aim was to create a design that is rooted in a traditional form but stands out from all other rings of its kind. Using the golden ratio as a guide to achieve harmony and complexity, I wanted to create a bold yet elegant piece of jewelry. I subtly adjusted the exact measurements of the golden ratio to achieve a more seamless and cohesive connection between the shank and the head.
- Inspiration
- The inspiration came from the paisley pattern, whose original Persian name was Boteh and which adorned the characteristic fabrics of the Middle East, especially India. In making this ring, my aim was to reflect the magic and spiritual charm of India and its culture and to create a piece that could embody the essence of a voluminous and elegant Kashmir shawl. The natural connection with jewelry arises because Kashmir has historically been synonymous with prestige.
- Image Credits
- Image #1: Stefano Negri
Image #2: Stefano Negri
Image #3: Stefano Negri
Image #4: Stefano Negri
Image #5: Stefano Negri
Video: Eleonora Federici
Video credits: Eleonora Federici, Paolo Argento (music)
Colors of Kashmir Ring
Design Interview about Kashmir Ring
This design was inspired by the Kashmir paisley motif, and reflects the vibrant fabrics of the Middle East, particularly India.
My aim was to seamlessly translate the elegance of the Kashmir fabric into a three-dimensional version while avoiding chaos, monotony or predictability.
My future plan for this design is to establish it as a renowned choice for women seeking to express their individuality and unique attitude through jewelry.
The project started in Pavia in January 2020 and concluded in Pavia in December 2020. It was a long process as this model was born out of inspiration and
evolved during the wax carving process by my own hands.
While the concept already existed in my head,
the act of carving by hand clarified exactly what I had envisioned.
evolved during the wax carving process by my own hands.
While the concept already existed in my head,
the act of carving by hand clarified exactly what I had envisioned.
I believe that creativity should have a positive impact beyond just aesthetics. My work often emphasizes themes like the coexistence of humans and endangered species or celebrates diverse cultures, reflecting my desire to raise awareness through my art. This ring, in particular, is a tribute to one of the most prominent Eastern cultures, celebrating its rich heritage and symbolism.
No, my design is currently not being produced or used by another company. However, it is part of my collection of wearable art showcased on my website eleonorafedericijewelry.com and available at the exclusive showroom Gioilelleria Marinone in Pavia, Italy. While I am focused on producing and showcasing my work myself, I am open to the possibility of selling the design to individuals or companies who can help elevate its visibility and popularity.
My decision to design this particular type of work stemmed from a convergence of factors. First of all, as always, inspiration. Then I was also driven by a desire to explore the boundaries of wearable art, seeking to create pieces that transcend traditional jewelry concepts and embody artistic expression.
No, my work is primarily influenced by my own creative vision and style. However, as I mentioned previously, every artist is inevitably influenced, even unconsciously, by their surroundings, experiences, and the work of others.
The target customers for this design are individuals with a discerning taste, drawn to unique and exclusive pieces, akin to the distinctive nature of my jewelry. These are individuals who value possessing items that are rare and not commonly found in others' collections, who perceive high-end design as an investment for the future, and who actively support artists and artistic endeavors, echoing the role of patrons in history.
Although it falls into the "domed ring" category, I have strived to be distinctive and embody the essence of a "statement" ring. Nonetheless, despite its size, it is unusually wearable and comfortable.
Therefore, I carefully balanced positive and negative surfaces.
Complexity and simplicity had to share the same space, in a delicate balance. It is not just a ring, it is a wearable piece of art.
Therefore, I carefully balanced positive and negative surfaces.
Complexity and simplicity had to share the same space, in a delicate balance. It is not just a ring, it is a wearable piece of art.
The name of this design is directly connected with its source of inspiration. I wanted to capture the magic and spiritual allure of India and embody the essence of a Kashmir shawl.
The dome shape alludes to our planet, which should embrace Indian culture based on the acceptance of diversity in harmony and balance - all concepts I aimed to represent in my design.
The dome shape alludes to our planet, which should embrace Indian culture based on the acceptance of diversity in harmony and balance - all concepts I aimed to represent in my design.
For this project, I initially crafted the wax model by hand, employing traditional tools reminiscent of those used by modelists in the past. This included files, saws, a small drill with various bits, a burin, and even some tools commonly used by dentists. Subsequently, I decided to digitize the model using CAD software, specifically Rhinoceros and ZBrush.
The most unique aspect of my design is that it functions both as a 'cocktail ring' and a 'statement ring,' while also being a piece of wearable art.
I worked independently on this design, utilizing my high level of specialized skills and expertise.
The role of technology in this design primarily involved reproducing it in CAD after I carved the original model by hand. I chose to do this because I wanted to utilize computer-aided design to create renderings and videos showcasing the design with various stone and metal color options.
As for data or analytical research influencing the design, I didn't conduct any formal research for this particular project. However, I believe that continuous immersion and dedication to one's craft inadvertently contribute to a background of ongoing research. My primary objective was to create a unique and timeless piece of jewelry that transcended fleeting fashion trends.
One of the major challenges I encountered during the design and realization of my concept was in the production of the wax model, which I handled personally. The size of the model, coupled with its numerous empty spaces and an average thickness of 1.50 mm, posed significant difficulties in handling without risking breakage.
Submitting my design to an international competition was a decision rooted in multiple motivations. Firstly, I sought broader recognition and exposure for my work, believing that participating in such a platform would provide valuable validation and visibility within the industry. Additionally, as I consider my pieces "wearable art", I aimed to showcase my creations to collectors who appreciate unique jewelry. In 2021-2022, I won the same award with the single earring “The Hummingbird,” marking the beginning of my journey to establish myself as an artist and my designs as coveted pieces in the world of wearable art.
Creating this work was a learning experience that greatly contributed to my growth as a designer and modelist. I encountered various challenges, such as delicately handling the wax model and finding the right balance between intricacy and durability. These challenges helped me improve my problem-solving skills and gain a deeper understanding of material limitations. Moreover, I learned the importance of perseverance and adaptability throughout the production process.
Grand Interview about Kashmir Ring
The paisley, with its fluid and organic shapes, carries rich cultural significance, and I wanted to honor that while reimagining it in a more sculptural, wearable form.I studied the paisley’s delicate curves and intricate detailing in its textile form, noting how the patterns often flow and intertwine. I sought to retain the essence of that movement and continuity while transforming it not just in a jewel but in a piece of wearable art.The idea was to preserve the sense of fluidity from the fabric while adapting it into a form that could interact with light and shadows, giving the paisley a dynamic, almost living quality. What truly guided me through this process was my instinct and my appreciation for beauty and movement. I started with a piece of jewelry wax, first carving the shape of the dome ring. Then, I hollowed out the model to the desired thickness to ensure a strong structure after casting. From there, I began drawing directly on the wax to form the top part of the pattern, gradually sawing away the areas that would remain empty. This technique allowed me to carve each section of the pattern one after the other, as the shapes seemed to "auto-create" themselves through my hands. That was not easy, as the wax is very soft at certain thickness...It’s difficult to explain my particular design process - it’s more about having an idea in my mind and bringing it to life directly, whether with my hands or on the computer. This approach also gives me the freedom to make changes to the initial concept as I go along, leading to the best final result.The outcome is a fusion of past and present, where the paisley pattern is not simply replicated but reimagined in a form that tells a new story.
I am not just a designer, but also a production specialist and bench jeweler, which means I have a deep understanding of the entire process of creating a piece of jewelry, from concept to completion. I have the technical knowledge required to ensure the longevity and durability of a piece like the Kashmir Ring. I am fully aware of the necessary thicknesses and proportions, particularly the width of the bridges connecting the voids, to ensure that the structure remains strong and stable while still allowing for the intricate balance of positive and negative spaces. This expertise enables me to create a design that is both visually striking, structurally sound and elegant.
The Middle East is known for its vibrant use of color, and in jewelry, there is an abundance of precious stones. I chose diamonds to draw the eye to the top of the ring, where you will find the blue sapphire and citrine - cold and warm tones that naturally enhance each other. The addition of a touch of red garnet surprises the eye, especially when viewed from all angles, creating an element of intrigue. While I wanted to showcase this rich palette, I was careful not to overuse gemstones, as my goal was to create a modern, wearable piece of art that still honors the traditional aesthetics of Kashmir textiles.
First and foremost, I design, blueprint, and produce my jewelry as if I were creating it for myself to wear. I am very meticulous and particular about every detail, which ensures the final piece is perfect. Anatomy is a key consideration in my design process - understanding how the piece will interact with the body is essential. By carefully balancing weight and volume, I am able to create a statement piece that, despite its bold dimensions, feels surprisingly light and comfortable, almost as if you are barely wearing it.
The Kashmir Ring was entirely crafted by hand using the ancient lost wax technique, which allowed me to fully embrace traditional craftsmanship. After completing the physical piece, I recreated the design in Rhinoceros to digitize the model. This step freed me from the constraints of the bulky traditional mold and enabled me to create a precise 3D representation of the ring. The digital model also allowed me to produce a detailed three-dimensional video, showcasing the ring's volume and seamless pattern in a way that enhances appreciation for its intricate design.
I have my own philosophy: when something is truly beautiful, it lasts forever, transcending trends and time. Beauty is not subjective; it is objective. True beauty is timeless. That is the hallmark of exceptional design: the ability to create pieces that never lose their appeal and stand apart from ordinary designs. This timeless quality is what defines true luxury and distinguishes carefully crafted, high-end creations. I am lucky to have been born with a natural talent for design, nurtured in an environment filled with a deep appreciation for craftsmanship, art, beauty, and culture. For me, the process is instinctive. So I reaaly cannot tell you how I did it, because I just do it, whitout even thinking.
If you observe the model both frontally and laterally, you'll notice that it primarily follows the golden spiral. However, adhering strictly to the golden ratio would have resulted in a different, less refined dome head. Additionally, from the lateral perspective, it would have compromised the comfortable wearability that I always prioritize in my designs. To adapt these classical proportions, I made subtle adjustments to ensure a harmonious balance between aesthetic appeal and functionality, creating a seamless connection between the shank and the head without sacrificing elegance or comfort.
Traditional dome rings often feature a rounded, voluminous shape, with a smooth, continuous surface, sometimes embellished by one or more stones, or a pavé. However, with the Kashmir Ring, I consciously chose to challenge the conventional fullness and uniformity of the dome. Instead of a simple, solid form, I reinterpreted the dome with a more intricate, layered design, which brings a sense of lightness and movement to the piece. The smooth curve is broken up by subtle detailing that enhances its visual complexity, while maintaining a sense of elegance. Additionally, I focused on achieving a balance between the structure's boldness and the need for comfort, ensuring the ring feels as good as it looks. By merging traditional elements with modern sensibilities, I reinvented the classic dome ring into something more dynamic and refined.
There are no specific techniques for this; it’s more about having a certain finesse. Your hands need to be both gentle and steady. I had to work very carefully with the saw and the drill. In the more delicate areas where the model cracked, I used dental instruments to melt wax and repair it. Once the repairs were done, I meticulously reviewed the entire model to check for any missing details or imperfections. The goal is to ensure the wax is as smooth and flawless as possible before moving forward.
Yes, I believe the Kashmir Ring represents a step forward in this regard. While many designers and jewelers in the past and present have created pieces clearly inspired by specific cultures, they often lack a truly modern approach. With the Kashmir Ring, I aimed to transcend the direct replication of cultural motifs by reinterpreting them through a contemporary lens, blending tradition with innovation. By harmonizing cultural symbolism with sleek, modern aesthetics, I hope to inspire future designers to explore deeper, more meaningful ways of integrating cultural fusion into contemporary jewelry design, making it both timeless and relevant to today’s luxury market. With the recognition from the A' Design Award, I believe this message will be acknowledged and shared, further influencing the evolution of cultural integration in jewelry design.