Reinterpretation Of Changshan Aṣọ láti ọwọ́ Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Aṣọ láti ọwọ́ Tong Tong jẹ́ aṣẹ́gun olókìkí púpọ̀ ti 2024 Àmì-ẹ̀yẹ Idẹ A' Design Award nínú Ẹ̀ka Ìdíje Àpẹẹrẹ Àṣà Ìmúra, Aṣọ àti Ẹ̀wù.

IdẹÀṣà Ìmúra· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Aṣọ

látọ̀wọ́ Tong Tong

Aṣẹ́gun Àmì-ẹ̀yẹ Idẹ A' Design Award nínú Ẹ̀ka Àṣà Ìmúra

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Aṣẹ́gun Àmì Ẹ̀yẹ Tí a Jẹ́rìísí

Jẹ́rìísí Ipò Àmì Ẹ̀yẹ fún #159036

Wo ní A' Design Award Ìwé Ìròyìn Àmì Ẹ̀yẹ

Àwọ̀

Àpẹrẹ Náà

Nípa Reinterpretation Of Changshan Aṣọ

Àpẹrẹ yìí ń bọ̀wọ̀ fún ẹwà àìlópin Changshan, aṣọ ìbílẹ̀ Ṣáínà tí a bọ̀wọ̀ fún fún àwọn ọkùnrin. Àtúnṣe yìí tó ń ṣe àfarawé àpẹrẹ rẹ̀ tó dára, da àṣà àtọwọ́dọ́wọ́ pọ̀ mọ́ ìmúdára tuntun láìléwu. Àwọn ìran tí ó dúró òró àti àwọn àpamọ́wọ́ tí a fi sínú rẹ̀ ní faramọ́ mu iṣẹ́ ṣíṣe pọ̀ sí nígbà tí ó ń tọ́jú ìwà ìrẹ̀lẹ̀. A fi aṣọ irun àgùntàn twill tí ó ní yíyí gíga ṣe é, ó funni ní àtìlẹ́yìn ètò àti ìrísí tí kò ní ìkúnwọ́. Nípa àwọn ọ̀nà ránṣẹ́ aṣọ tó péye, wọ́n borí nǹkan ìṣòro àtúnṣe ọrùn aṣọ náà nígbà tí ó ń ṣe àrídájú ìdásílẹ̀ dáradára àti ìdúróṣinṣin ètò.

Ìdánimọ̀ Náà

Nípa Àmì-ẹ̀yẹ Idẹ A' Design Award

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Aṣọ jẹ́ olùborí Àmì-ẹ̀yẹ Idẹ A' Design Award, ìdánimọ̀ olókìkí gan-an tí a fún àwọn àwòṣe tó tayọ tí wọ́n yàtọ̀ nípasẹ̀ ìṣẹ̀dá, àrékérekè àti ọgbọ́n inú. Àwọn olùborí Idẹ jẹ́ àwọn ohun èlò tó ní ìjáfáfá gan-an tí wọ́n sì ní ìṣẹ̀dá tó yani lẹ́nu tí wọ́n ń ṣe ẹ̀rí ìrírí gbígbòòrò, ìrònú àti ọgbọ́n àwọn olùṣàwòṣe wọn. A retí pé Reinterpretation Of Changshan Aṣọ yóò jẹ́ ohun tí a kà sí gidigidi, tí a gbóríyìn fún tí a sì nífẹ̀ẹ́, tó jẹ́ ti ọ̀jáfáfá lọ́nà tó ṣe pàtàkì tó sì ní ìmúṣẹ̀dá tuntun. Àwòṣe tó borí Àmì-ẹ̀yẹ Idẹ A' Design Award yìí ń kó àwọn ọ̀nà tó dára jùlọ nínú iṣẹ́ ọnà, sáyẹ́ǹsì, àwòṣe àti ìmọ̀-ẹ̀rọ jọ, ó sì tayọ nítorí àfiyèsí rẹ̀ sí àwọn àlàyé kékeré. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Aṣọ ń tẹ́ àwọn ohun tí a nílò lọ́rùn lọ́nà àgbàyanu, ó ń fọwọ́ kan àwọn ìfẹ́ inú, ó ń gbà ọkàn ó sì ń fa ìfẹ́ láti mọ̀ mọ́ra.

Lẹ́yìn Àpẹrẹ Náà

Àkójọ Ìròyìn

Àwọn ẹ̀tọ́, àwọn ọmọ ẹgbẹ́ àti àlàyé ìmọ̀ ẹ̀rọ tí olùṣàpẹrẹ pèsè.

Àwọn Ohun Àkànṣe: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Ìwọ̀n àti Àpò: Full-body Length
Àwọn Àkọlé: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Ìmọ̀-ẹ̀rọ Ìṣelọ́pọ̀: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Ìpèníjà Àpèsè: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Ìwádìí: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Ìmísí: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Àkókò Iṣẹ́ Àkànṣe: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Ìlànà Ìṣiṣẹ́: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Àwọn Ọmọ Ẹgbẹ́: Tong Tong
Ìfọwọ́sí Àwòrán: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023