Bronze Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design · 2024
Reinterpretation Of Changshan Garment
by Tong Tong
- A' Design Award 2024 Bronze Winner in Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design
- Awarded April 15, 2024
- Estimated Number of Design Views: 92,085
- Verification code D1C9C470D8 · Verify this award
About Reinterpretation Of Changshan Garment
The design honors the timeless elegance of the Changshan, a revered traditional Chinese menswear garment. Evoking its refined silhouette, this reinterpretation seamlessly blends heritage with innovation. Vertical seams and discreetly integrated pockets enhance functionality while maintaining modesty. Crafted from high twist wool twill, it offers structural support and a wrinkle free appearance. Through meticulous tailoring methods, the challenge of reimagining the neckline is overcome while ensuring both smooth curves and structural integrity.
Press Kit
- Unique Properties
- While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
- Dimensions & Packaging
- Full-body Length
- Tags
- Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
- Production Technology
- A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
- Design Challenge
- The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
- Project Duration
- This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
- Operation Flow
- The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
- Research
- Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
- Inspiration
- This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
- Image Credits
- Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023
Colors of Reinterpretation Of Changshan Garment
Design Interview about Reinterpretation Of Changshan Garment
The main principle, idea, and inspiration behind my design is to innovate and modernize the iconic Changshan garment while honoring its timeless elegance and historical significance. Drawing inspiration from its lean yet elegant silhouette and traditional features such as the Mandarin collar and overlapping front opening, I aimed to harmonize tradition with modernity in my reinterpretation.
My main focus in designing this work was to achieve a seamless blend of heritage and innovation. I sought to preserve the overall minimal and elongated silhouette of the Changshan while introducing innovative tailoring methods and functional elements to enhance its versatility and wearability. Specifically, I aimed to achieve a design that seamlessly integrates vertical seams for volume control, discreetly integrated pockets, and a modified front opening for easier access, all while ensuring structural integrity and maintaining the garment's modest appearance.
Winning this award has given me the confidence to pursue small-batch production for this design. My plan is to perfect the design further, ensuring it is suitable for production, and ultimately transform it into a ready-to-wear piece. I'm excited about the opportunity to bring this design to life and share it with a broader audience.
From conceptualization to the final product, this design took approximately one and a half months to complete.
As a designer with a Chinese cultural background and a passion for historical garments, the silhouette of the Changshan has always held a special place in my memories since childhood. This nostalgia and curiosity led me to embark on a reinterpretation of this menswear staple. I sought to innovate while staying true to the essence of the Changshan, exploring ways to modernize and refresh its traditional elements. This journey of reinterpretation became the starting point for my design process.
I conducted extensive historical and visual research to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, I reviewed historical photographs and documentaries via digital databases, such as the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology Museum. Their collection of Changshan from the historical period served as a valuable reference, providing insights and inspiration for my design.
The primary challenge I faced during the realization of this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, I conducted multiple trial iterations to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, I molded the neck area under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, I pad-stitched hymo to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Designing this garment has been a significant learning experience for me, both technically and creatively. The intricate nature of the design presented numerous challenges, pushing me to expand my skills and problem-solving abilities. Working through these challenges has not only improved my technical proficiency but also taught me valuable lessons in perseverance and craftsmanship. Overall, this project has been instrumental in my growth as a designer.