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Materializing the Digital Transformable Fabrics 3D Printed by Valentina Favaro
Materializing the Digital Transformable Fabrics 3D Printed by Valentina Favaro
Materializing the Digital Transformable Fabrics 3D Printed by Valentina Favaro
Materializing the Digital Transformable Fabrics 3D Printed by Valentina Favaro
Materializing the Digital Transformable Fabrics 3D Printed by Valentina Favaro

Valentina Favaro

Bronze Textile, Fabric, Textures, Patterns and Cloth Design · 2020

Materializing the Digital Transformable Fabrics 3D Printed

by Valentina Favaro

  • A' Design Award 2020 Bronze Winner in Textile, Fabric, Textures, Patterns and Cloth Design
  • Awarded April 15, 2020
  • CLIENT: Valentina Favaro
  • Estimated Number of Design Views: 28,596
  • Verification code D0F79A1819 · Verify this award
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About Materializing the Digital Transformable Fabrics 3D Printed

These designs explore how movement can be embodied in our urban garments through the use of programmable materials in response to the digital era. The aim is to analyze the relation between body and movement, through the connection with materials, and their adaptation and reaction to this. Materialization means to assume material form: the emphasis is on reality and perception. To materialize the movement is a path which has not only a conceptual and social goal, but also a functional one. The inspiration came doing a motion capture of our bodies in different sport activities.

Press Kit

Unique Properties
These designs explore how movement can be embodied in our urban garments through the use of programmable materials in response to the digital era.Aiming to analyze the relation between body and movement, through the connection with materials, and their adaptation and reaction to this. Materialization means to assume material form: the emphasis is on reality and perception. To materialize the movement is a path which has not only a conceptual and social goal, but also a functional one.
Dimensions & Packaging
Transformable 3d printed fabrics are a research based on the development of programmable materials. Printing with a solid material ( in this case verbatim primalloy to assure the right solidity meanwhile being flexible on the body) on a stretched fabric, means when the fabric will be released it will take different shapes based on the texture which has been printed.
Every piece of fabric has been done 40 for 40 cm when stretched ( the dimension of the available 3d printer I had) and less, depending on the texture, when realised.
In these way fabrics become adaptive and reactive.
Before it the use of motion capture has been really useful to understand body movements during the activities and to analyze and research to later design.
Tags
programmable fabrics, transformable fabrics, digital era, 3d printing, movement, adaptation, reaction, materialisation, changeability
Production Technology
This work focuses on the programmable fabrics: this means fabrics which are stretchable and can react, trough shrinking, to the contrast of the more solid matter 3d printed on them.
In prestressed textiles, textiles with a high degree of elasticity, such as neoprene and jersey, can be used as the active material of the programmable composite. Less elastic material, such as plastic, can be used as the non-active material to structure the textile and constrain its stretched state.
Moreover the research beginning the shapes study, and done on the movements of the body during different activities, has been done through the motion capture of people biking, running and skating.
Design Challenge
The hardest part has been facing the production possibilities, and still is open a question on how to produce the collection on a large scale.
Besides also the design challenge of putting together a conceptual reflection on our time, and a functional study for our body.
Project Duration
The project started in Ravensbourne university in January 2019 and ended as my own dissertation in October 2019.
Operation Flow
These clothes have been design studying a way to embrace the movement of our body and, at the same time, as a reflection on how this digital era is making everything more virtual, literally tracing the shape of movement on fabrics. So both, functional and conceptual.
On the practical aspect this has been made choosing three activities that are riding our urban scenario (biking, skating and running), and which makes us needing adaptable clothing more and more everyday.
People movements, making these activities, have been analysed through the use of motion capture. The movements has been traced through the use of Maya software, and after it studied and elaborated into skatches.
In these phase the functional part has been interwoven with the conceptual one.
Once decided the shapes and movements for every outfit, the fabrics has been stretched on a 3d printer and printed, so once released it could shrink into shapes.
After this the design was sewn ( due to the little dimension of the 3d printer plate every part has been divided in more and sewn together)
Research
The aim of this research is to analyze and underline the relation between body and movement, through the connection with materials, and their adaptation and reaction to this. This research explores the possibility to create a new category of fabrics
.
The narration behind this is a reflection on the digital ages we are living in, where virtual is overwhelming the physical aspects of life.

We are now the new tribe of digital natives. Digital people in digital environments. The research explores the question: how can movement be embodied in our urban garments through the use of programmable materials in response to the digital era?
Moreover, in support to the conceptual world of materialization versus volatility, of tangible vs intangible, physical vs virtual, it follows an investigation on what is movement, how we can produce and trace it.
The focus is on the challenge of materialize our movements, in order to bring awareness on our situation.
What would be a world only virtual? How can we save the material world?

We need to investigate the essence of our physical body, the movement. This is the story, or better say, the wardrobe, of our new digital era; of the materialization of movement.
Inspiration
These designs investigate the possibility to create a new category of fabrics enabling movement and using it as source of inspiration for the creation of new shapes. The narration behind this is a reflection on the digital ages we are living in, where virtual is overwhelming the physical aspects of life.
We are now digital people in digital environments. How can we save the material world?
This is the story, or better say, the wardrobe, of a digital era, of the materialization of movement.
Image Credits
Image #1: photographer Suthathip Saepung/ model Savannah Smith/ model Sara Dett /creator Valentina Favaro
Image #2: photographer Suthathip Saepung/ model Savannah Smith/ model Sara Dett /creator Valentina Favaro
Image #3: photographer Suthathip Saepung/ model Savannah Smith/ creator Valentina Favaro
Image #4: photographer Suthathip Saepung/ model Savannah Smith/ creator Valentina Favaro
Image #5: photographer Suthathip Saepung/ model Sara Dett /creator Valentina Favaro

Colors of Materializing the Digital Transformable Fabrics 3D Printed

Design Interview about Materializing the Digital Transformable Fabrics 3D Printed

The inspiration is a reflection on how movement can be embodied in our urban garments through the use of programmable materials in response to the digital era.
We are now living in a digital era, digital people in digital environment, and virtual is overwhelming the physical aspects of life. In opposite to these I wanted to bring awareness on materiality.
In each change there has been in the material culture the reason was mainly the movement.
The relation between body and movement is the main focus.

The relation between body and movement is the main focus. I needed to find a way to put together the meaning and importance of materiality with a new need for functionality, something which can enhance the movement of our body, as well as follow and represent a new life in which from morning to night we need to go to tons of different places with different needs of clothes.
I wanted to go deeper in the path of programmable materials, to design something which could both follow our movements and change its shape.
In the end I started capturing the movement of the body with a Kinect, and tracing it with Maya. This gave me the possibility to follow both the conceptual part and the functional one: for the first one I was able to trace the movement, to bring it from real to virtual to its materialisation into clothes; for the functionality I was able in this way to understand which movement freedom and support was needed in our clothes. All these for easiness has been divided in free different capsule collection connected each one to one activity.
Finally I started printing, printing, again and again, to find the best way in which fabrics were able to start moving, I was finally programming them.

To look further into this research trying to find a way to make it easier and to follow the path of movement in the best functional way.

it took me 5 months, in which I printed day and nights. I was often putting my alarm during night every three hours to take out a printed piece and put another one on the go.

My interest on looking always forward, on discovering new possibilities. And, most of all, my interest on the connection between body and movement, nevertheless my passion for materials.

First of all the practitioner Christopher Guberan, focuses on the reaction of 3d printing on fabric. Guberan research is based more in general in the development of materials which can change and react.
These materials are called programmable materials.

Materializing the digital stands for the era we're living and the one we're going to live, in which virtual is becoming more present than physical. But can we imagine a world only virtual? the name wants to create a reflection on the importance which materials have for us. On the paradox that one day we'll need to transform something digital into physical.

First of all, I used a Kinect to make all the part of motion capture. Then I used the software Maya to trace and analyze movements. Meanwhile studying and developing all the sketches I started experimenting with the 3d printer with flexible filaments (different shapes, materials, mechanical tensions). Finally I made all the 3ds files with solidworks and rhino.

Applying 3d printing to fabrics to create new programmable fabrics. Also, to capture the body and analyse it while moving.

Most of all the 3d printing of each pieces and the tailoring of each garment.
3d printing on fabric is really difficult and is challenging to not ruin the fabric and at the same time find the good adherence. Also the right mechanical tension is really tricky to find together with the right filament and fabric.
Finally during the tailoring you need to put all together in the best way each module printed ( since I had access only to normale 3d printer with a plate of 40 x 40 cm).

I wanted to give it a chance for creating a resonance and maybe new connection: I think it's a good way to bring it forward and meet new people with the aim of bringing programmable materials into fashion.

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