Iron Textile, Fabric, Textures, Patterns and Cloth Design · 2022
Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion
- A' Design Award 2022 Iron Winner in Textile, Fabric, Textures, Patterns and Cloth Design
- Awarded April 15, 2022
- CLIENT: Indin
- Estimated Number of Design Views: 36,081
- Verification code 3E80DC1397 · Verify this award
About Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion
The practice-led research and design investigated the use of soil to create a substitute textile material in Thailand. It aims to maximize the value of natural resources in response to climate change, based on the concept of living in harmony with nature. A bio-fibre was synthesized from soil bacteria through a process that holistically considered the full production cycle, ensuring that it generated no waste. The final material contained melanin pigments similar to human skin tones, with hues comparable to those of people from Thailand.
Press Kit
- Unique Properties
- A bio-fibre was synthesized from soil bacteria through a process that holistically considered the full production cycle, ensuring that it generated no waste. The final material contained melanin pigments similar to human skin tones, with hues comparable to those of people from Thailand. The results of this study can be further developed on a commercial scale to support sustainability. The proposed technology has applications in fashion design, where it can enhance individuals’ aesthetics and self-esteem. This research can help advance Thailand’s national development strategy to drive creativity through scientific innovation.
- Dimensions & Packaging
- A series of bio garment dimensions are approximately 60 x 120 x 100 cm. and ornaments are around 72 x 140 x 23 cm.
- Tags
- soil; melanin; textile substitute; bio-fibres; sustainable production; Thailand
- Production Technology
- The use of soil innovation to synthesize textile substitutes and create garments for the future has expanded from the study of the integrity cycle of ‘soil’ and the changes in ‘soil’ properties. The experimental process synthesizes bio-fibre and melanin from Streptomyces, bacteria naturally present in soil, into textile substitutes or bio-cellulose. This is a clean production technology and does not generate residual toxic substances or environment pollution. The result is a substitute material which is friendly to the human body and is biodegradable. The goal of the artist designer is to design and create pilot products and design cycles for circular fashion. The artist designer believes good products are designed to not only respond to basic human needs or facilitate human living but must also be developed, analysed, and designed to understand elements such as designers, producers, operators, and consumers. This builds a circulatory system which conforms to the same goal: recycling throughout the production process so that no waste is created. This requires a return to nature that starts by ensuring that all processes involved in production, such as designing, manufacturing, transportation, or distribution, are complete processes.
- Design Challenge
- This research, which is in line with the 12th National Economic and Social Development Plan and uses the aforementioned ‘cycle of circular design’, is presented as a pilot product design to illustrate the feasibility of commercial production. These processes can contribute to the overall development and future growth of the creative economy. This is because countries have come to realize that current global situations have dramatically affected humanity’s way of life. Catastrophic global crises reflect choices that contradict scientific advancement; for example, rapidly changing fashion trends have led to excessive waste in the fashion industry, which have upset the ecological balance of nature. Humanity must, therefore, urgently realize and seek ways to restore and conserve the environment. One important duty for designers is to create product design concepts that promote ecological balance through circular fashion design.
- Project Duration
- The project started in August 2018 in Thailand and finished in April 2021 in Thailand, and was awarded winning and exhibited in many museums and galleries such as Thailand, China, Spain, Romania and USA. It was also published in Academics fields like international conferences and journals for example; Pratt Institute (New York), University of Montreal (Mexico), Falling Wall LAB (Germany) and Ewha Womans University (Korea).
- Operation Flow
- This study applies a scientific experiment process to discover a new material with remarkable properties that will contribute to both restoring Thailand’s growth foundation and improving the security of its natural resource base. This will help to promote conservation, by limiting the use of the country’s natural capital and managing it to create balance in the environment, which will enhance the quality of life for its citizens. In the future, human garment design will rely on new developments in bioscience technology, which will exhibit the potential integration of aesthetic philosophy and innovation, resulting in the effective design of a textile substitute.
- Research
- In the unprecedented time of natural disasters and global pandemics, people are changing their behaviors. We find a way to live through the crises while building economic strength. One of the ways to our survival is an environment-friendly development and growth, starting from restoring natural resources. To respond to human needs, we need to produce products that are environmentally aware. In designing a product, the aim is to ensure that it is reusable, recyclable, and biodegradable. The whole production process leaves no waste behind. For these reasons, the research project on using soil to create a textile substitute material aims to study and synthesize bio-fibre from good bacteria which is abundant in nature. It has brown pigments which are similar to melanin which determines human skin colours. The pigments can be used in producing garments. This demonstrates the relationship between humans and nature. It also has the potential to be developed for commercial purposes and support creative business growth, and economic stability for small and medium businesses in the future.
- Inspiration
- This study investigated the use of soil to create a substitute textile material to create fashion garments for the future in Thailand. It aims to maximize the value of natural resources in response to climate change, based on the concept of living in harmony with nature.
- Image Credits
- All images, Photos and Video credits go to Khajornsak Nakpan.
- Patents
- Patents
1. 1903002625
9 October, 2019
2. 2001006387
6 November, 2020
Colors of Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion
Design Interview about Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion
The final material contained melanin pigments similar to human skin tones, with hues comparable to those of people from Thailand.
The proposed technology has applications in fashion design, where it can enhance the aesthetics and self-esteem of individuals.
This award-winning design help advances Thailand’s national sustainable development, driving creativity through scientific innovation.
Spending 3 years.
A critical duty as an inspiration for designers is to create sustainable products through holistic fashion design.
There will be several channels for producing this work, such as collaborating with Thai Wacoal Company limited to produce lingerie and nightgowns, continuing the research in order to develop the biomaterial, and creating the aesthetic art pieces.
The use of soil to synthesise a textile substitute is based on research on the integrated cycle of soil along with changes in textile properties owing to Streptomyces (bacteria naturally present in soil), and its use for bio-fibre and melanin production to create a textile substitute of bio-cellulose, with tones similar to those of the human skin .
In the research by Tina Gorjanc, who extracted DNA from the hair of the renowned fashion designer Alexander McQueen, grew it into the tissue, and developed a skin-like material. As well as biocouture is a research project using nature to suggest an innovative future fashion vision by Suzanne Lee.
The target customer will be a new generation with a conscious mind in nature.
The innovative synthesis of melanin from the soil is promising and has the potential to be developed as an alternative material.
The resulting biodegradable material is safe for human use, and its natural colour promotes self-esteem, reinforcing respect for nature and promoting the relationship between humans and clothing.
Practice-based research is the tool for investigating holistic knowledge.
The unique aspect was to design and create a speculative product that would give a creative and artistic avenue to meet the criteria of designers, producers, operators, and consumers. This requires a ‘return to nature’ approach ensuring that all stages of production (design, manufacture, transportation, and distribution) are waste-free.
An always advisor named Associate Professor Dr. Supavee Sirinkraporn, an artist jeweller and tutor at Silpakorn University.
Biotechnology, integrating aesthetic philosophy.
Research on melanin synthesis from bacteria or fungi has garnered much interest over the past decade.
Streptomyces produced a high amount of melanin, showing the growth of a brownish colony. The physical qualities and chemical mechanisms shown by bacterial melanin are genetically and phenotypically alike to the melanin found in human cells.
To be proved that this work reaches to the international standard point and encounter all over the world comments.
The creation of scientific innovation focused on research related to human skin colour, drawing inspiration from groups of Thai people from different regions in the country to create clothes that are appropriate for the most common skin colour. Together with the issue of increasing the value and worth of natural resources is chosen because of the need to develop viable substitute materials. These materials can be used to produce clothes based on comparing melanin from the soil and skin colour.
The project aims to develop a product that manifests the concept of self-esteem, showing the philosophy and beauty of human skin. A series of garments can promote a positive self-image and a sense of security, which will enhance people's aesthetic values in the future.
Grand Interview about Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion
“The development of Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion began with a scientific inquiry into soil bacteria found in acidic, nutrient-rich environments. Early experiments focused on understanding the metabolic pathways through which these microorganisms naturally generate melanin compounds. This biological insight led to a series of controlled laboratory syntheses, where melanin was extracted, stabilized, and re-engineered into filament structures. Through iterative testing, material refinement, and cross-disciplinary collaboration, the fibre evolved from a fragile laboratory sample into a viable textile component. The final realization integrates biological intelligence with contemporary fashion design, demonstrating how material innovation can open new aesthetic, cultural, and environmental possibilities.”
“The exploration began with a desire to reconnect material innovation with the intimate narratives of human identity. Melanin, as a biological pigment, embodies cultural memory, ancestry, and the diversity of skin tones found in Thai communities. When I discovered that soil-derived bacteria could produce melanin pigments remarkably close to these natural hues, it became an opportunity to bridge science with lived human experience. The project grew from this realization: that a material born from the earth could resonate with the very tones that define our shared humanity. By aligning bio-based pigments with the aesthetics of the body, the work seeks to honor identity, reclaim cultural nuance, and reaffirm the profound relationship between humans, nature, and the environments that shape us.”
“The zero-waste cycle of Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion reflects my commitment to a circular design philosophy in which every stage of production returns value to the environment rather than extracting from it. The microbial synthesis of melanin generates no toxic residues, and all by-products can be reintegrated into the soil, completing a fully regenerative loop. The main challenges involved stabilizing the bio-fibre without synthetic additives and ensuring colorfastness while preserving ecological integrity. Through iterative testing, biodegradable binders, and low-energy processing techniques, we achieved a material system that upholds environmental harmony and demonstrates how circularity can become an intrinsic design principle rather than an afterthought.”
“This three-year journey has fundamentally reshaped my understanding of what sustainable fashion can become. The international recognition, including the A' Design Award, affirmed that material innovation rooted in biology is not only viable but essential for the future of the industry. Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion revealed that sustainability is no longer limited to reducing harm; it can create new aesthetic languages, cultural meanings, and regenerative systems. This project expanded my perspective from designing garments to designing ecosystems, where fashion, science, and ecology evolve together to inspire a more responsible and symbiotic future.”
“Working at the intersection of bioscience and aesthetic philosophy has expanded my understanding of what garments can express and how they can coexist with the environment. The experimental process demonstrated that materials are not merely surfaces to be shaped, but living systems with their own behaviors, rhythms, and identities. This interdisciplinary approach opened new possibilities for designing garments that grow, adapt, and communicate ecological meaning. It encouraged me to envision future fashion as a dialogue between biological processes and cultural expression, where innovation arises not from imposing form, but from collaborating with nature’s intelligence.”
“The turning point came from observing how specific soil bacteria in acidic environments naturally produce melanin as a protective response to stress. Their ability to generate stable pigments, build structural polymers, and adapt to fluctuating conditions revealed a surprising parallel with the functional requirements of textile fibers. By studying their metabolic pathways, I realized that these microorganisms could create organic compounds capable of forming filamentous structures with color, durability, and environmental resilience. This insight transformed soil bacteria from a biological curiosity into a viable, climate-responsive material source, demonstrating how microbial intelligence can guide the next generation of sustainable textile innovation.”
“This breakthrough demonstrates that sustainable manufacturing can move beyond mitigation toward genuine regeneration. The clean production process behind Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion offers a model in which materials are grown rather than extracted, and where waste is reintegrated into ecological cycles. I believe this approach can encourage the fashion industry to rethink its dependency on synthetic fibers and energy-intensive systems. As bio-based technologies mature, designers and manufacturers will increasingly see that environmental responsibility and high aesthetic value can coexist. My hope is that this work inspires a shift toward production ecosystems that collaborate with natural processes, shaping a future where fashion becomes an active contributor to ecological well-being.”
“Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion invites us to reconsider clothing as more than a manufactured object, but as a material expression of our coexistence with nature. Because the fibre originates from living microorganisms and returns safely to the earth, it embodies a circular rhythm that contrasts with the linear patterns of conventional fashion. Wearing such materials encourages greater awareness of ecological cycles and the origins of what we place on our bodies. I believe this approach can reshape our relationship with clothing, prompting a deeper sense of environmental responsibility and inspiring a cultural shift toward garments that honor natural systems rather than exploit them.”
“One of the most unexpected discoveries was the complexity of micro-ecosystems within acidic soils and how certain bacterial strains exhibited highly adaptive pigment-forming behaviors. These microorganisms not only produced melanin, but also generated secondary biomolecules capable of enhancing fibre strength, elasticity, and moisture responsiveness. Another surprising insight was the soil’s mineral composition, which influenced pigment tonality and stability in ways that mirrored human skin undertones. These findings suggest future pathways for developing bio-textiles that are both functionally resilient and culturally expressive, demonstrating how soil science can inform the next generation of sustainable material innovation.”
“The next stage of development focuses on scaling the fibre through low-energy microbial cultivation systems while preserving its biological purity and regenerative qualities. My plan is to collaborate with bioscience laboratories and sustainable manufacturing partners to refine production protocols, ensuring that every step remains free from synthetic additives or harmful residues. Commercial applications will emphasize biodegradable composites, natural dye alternatives, and small-batch artisanal textiles that honor the material’s ecological origins. By maintaining transparency in sourcing, cultivation, and disposal, the technology can enter the market without compromising environmental integrity, setting a precedent for responsible, nature-aligned innovation.”