Angela Tsai Jung Chiang의 The Withering Flower 인쇄 된 직물

디자이너 Angela Tsai Jung Chiang의 작품 The Withering Flower 인쇄 된 직물은(는) 매우 권위 있는 2020 A' Design Award 은상의 텍스타일, 직물, 텍스처, 패턴 및 천 디자인 부문에서 탁월한 수상작입니다.

은텍스타일· 2020

The Withering Flower 인쇄 된 직물

디자이너: Angela Tsai Jung Chiang

클라이언트: Angela Chiang

텍스타일 부문 A' Design Award 은상 수상작

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The Withering Flower 인쇄 된 직물 소개

시들어지는 꽃은 꽃 이미지의 힘을 축하하는 것입니다. 꽃은 중국 문학에서 의인화로 쓰여진 인기있는 주제입니다. 피는 꽃의 인기와는 달리, 썩어가는 꽃의 이미지는 종종 징크스와 금기와 관련이 있습니다. 이 컬렉션은 숭고하고 혐오스러운 것에 대한 커뮤니티의 인식을 형성하는 요소를 살펴 봅니다. 100cm ~ 200cm 길이의 얇은 명주 그물 드레스, 반투명 메시 원단에 실크 스크린 인쇄로 디자인 된이 직물 기술은 인쇄물이 메쉬에서 불투명하고 신축성을 유지하여 공중에 떠있는 것처럼 보이게합니다.

수상 인정

A' Design Award 은상 소개

The Withering Flower 인쇄 된 직물, 이 작품은 A' Design Award 은상 수상작으로, 최상급이며 아름답고 인상적인 디자인에 수여되는 비범하게 권위 있는 인정입니다. 은상 수상작은 대단히 뛰어나고 매우 창의적인 작품으로, 디자이너의 탁월한 전문 지식, 재능, 통찰력을 보여 줍니다. The Withering Flower 인쇄 된 직물, 이 작품은 훌륭한 대표작으로서 매우 전문적이고 깊이 있게 혁신적일 것으로 기대됩니다. 이 은상 수상 디자인은 예술, 과학, 디자인, 기술의 경계를 넓히는 데 이바지하는 주목할 만하고 찬사를 받는 발명품입니다. The Withering Flower 인쇄 된 직물, 이 작품은 모두가 부러워하는 창작물로서 욕망을 일깨우고 긍정적인 감정을 불러오며 경탄과 경이로움을 불러일으킵니다.

디자인 비하인드

프레스 킷

디자이너가 제공한 크레딧, 팀원 및 기술 세부 사항.

고유 특성: The Withering Flower collection developed a series of silk screen printed fabrics and dresses. Each dress is length 2 meters long of sheer nets, composed of flower motifs with specific meaning according to its symbolism in Chinese literature. The textile printing technique enabled the binders to stay opaque, flexible, and waterproof on stretchy yet see-through nets, creating an illusion of prints floating in the air as well as tattoos on the skin when the dress is worn against the body.
치수 및 패키징: Long dress's dimension: W 450mm x L 2000mm
Short dress's dimension: W 450mm x L1300mm
태그: Textile, Fashion, Fabric, Flower, Screen Printing, Innovative Textile, Central Saint Martins,
생산 기술: Silk screen printing on stretchy and see-through nets. By specific mixture of textile binder ratios to achieve the stickiness and opaqueness that the prints would secure onto the fabric surface. After silk screen printing, the fabrics are sent into baking and steaming for colour vibrancy as well as further locking the binders onto the fabrics.
디자인 과제: The research challenge appeared when I started reading Chinese literature classics, yet to organize the literary references in order to strengthen the point in the withering flower as an abject. Yet we know the decaying things meant bad luck in fengshui, but why?
The misfortune and dead are an avoided subject which I was taught since childhood. But what is shaping my instinctive judgement that withering matters repel us? Is it the knowledge passed down from my parents, or their parents, or the ancestors before them? Since when and how are our immediate responses to certain subjects are formed? Is the common sense formed in generation of cultures, through written records, spoken languages, families' upbringings that the idea of death equals taboo.

The design and execution challenge is the most struggling during the making of the textiles. Getting the right ratio for the print binder has failed several times, the paste was either too light to stay on top of the fabrics, or too heavy that the fabrics became sticky and unwearable. After many efforts on print binder ratio testing, steaming temperature experiments, baking process, and checking washability, finally came out an adequate measure that securely locked the opaque print on see-through net fabrics, and at the same time retained the glossy appearance, flexibility, waterproof qualities.
연구: The research for The Withering Flower collection began with studying the Chinese Literature classic, The Dream of the Red Chamber, a novel by Cao Xueqin, originally published in 1791 in China, later adapted and translated to English in 1987.

My research on the flower image, especially the symbolic decaying flower image in Oriental settings further developed from studying the female protagonist's epiphany, whereas the character sings, The Song of the Flower Burial, during chapter 27 in The Dream of the Red Chamber.
The fallen and decayed petals beautifully yet melancholically symbolized the female protagonist’s struggle and sorrow in an oppressed feudal aristocrat society.

As the flower is a common subject for personification in Chinese literature and poetry, the meaning each flower embodies, or given by the writer and poet, is derived from its cultural and historic values.

By first examining flower representation in Chinese cultural settings through literature works, I learnt about the principles of flower symbolism is to primarily promote good luck and well-being. And yet, the heritage-rich knowledge in measuring good fortune resulted in the study of fengshui, and it still retains its significant influence over Asian countries. There is a myth in Chinese tradition that people subconsciously desire to surround their presence with things that resemble fortune in literature meanings. Therefore the subject of a decaying flower is perceived as misfortune and taboo, in contrary to the blooming flower's meaning in longevity and prosperity.

Another example, in Chinese culture the white chrysanthemum is the flower for funeral, and would be considered as a jinx if given on a normal occasion. The number 4 has the same pronunciation as death, and is avoided at hotel and apartment's unit number, even hospital would exclude the fourth floor at flooring plan, yet skipping from third floor directly to fifth floor at building indicator maps. The number 4 is as well a bad-luck number at giving out gifts, flowers, or the amount of red envelope money at Chinese new year.

The dead flower on the body leads to taboos about mortality and loss, as even the slightest sight of a vase of decaying flower is seen as an abject, and to be avoided in Chinese culture and custom. The dilemma I experienced around the cultural responses over the withering flower inspired me to analyze the traditions and paradigms that are shaping our aesthetics.
영감: The Withering Flower collection is inspired by the power of the flower image, its impact both visually and symbolically in Oriental setting.
From the flower’s precise metaphor in classical Chinese literature, The Dream of the Red Chamber, which simultaneously reflects the women living in a feudal society in the stories; to the extend of how the flowers are interpreted in fengshui as well as gifting etiquette, I was vividly drawn to the Oriental world of defining the flower visuals.
프로젝트 기간: The project started in January 2016 in London UK, and finished in April 2016. It was exhibited at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design as my graduation collection show for BA Degree in Fashion Design.
운영 흐름: The collection's hand printed textiles are stretchy, waterproof, and remained opaque on sheer net fabrics, creating an illusion of glossy stickers floating in the air. Unlike digital sublimation printing on sheer fabrics whereas the patterns are blended into the material yet making them semi-see through, this textile collection developed a screen printing technique to keep the opaqueness and vibrancy of the prints staying securely on top of the fabric surface.
특허: Copyrights belong to Angela Chiang, 2020.
이미지 출처: Image #1: Photographer Yi Tuo/ Lookbook Stylist Zipeng Li, The Withering Flower, 2016.
Image #2: Photographer Yi Tuo/ Lookbook Stylist Zipeng Li, The Withering Flower, 2016.
Image #3: Photographer Yi Tuo/ Lookbook Stylist Zipeng Li, The Withering Flower, 2016.