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Interviews with Ying Li
Designer profileDesigner Interview
25 June 2023
I studied Art and Design at Hunan University of Technology in China. I became a designer after graduation. To be honest I didn’t think too much about my career at that time. I chose to be a UI designer in the IT field because the wage is much higher than others. Then I was busy all the time. When I realized something, 5 years had passed.
Then I began to think about myself, my career, my interests, my hobbies, and my life. My sister, who runs her own jewelry studio, invited me to join her as a jewelry designer. This is an area I have never touched before, so I am not sure if I can handle it or not. One day, some memories suddenly popped into my head. I dressed a Barbie doll, picking clothes and accessories. This was my original thought, I wanted to make others beautiful. My decision was made then.
I learn everything I can about jewelry design. Read books, take courses, look for materials, etc. My jewelry design career began.
Then I began to think about myself, my career, my interests, my hobbies, and my life. My sister, who runs her own jewelry studio, invited me to join her as a jewelry designer. This is an area I have never touched before, so I am not sure if I can handle it or not. One day, some memories suddenly popped into my head. I dressed a Barbie doll, picking clothes and accessories. This was my original thought, I wanted to make others beautiful. My decision was made then.
I learn everything I can about jewelry design. Read books, take courses, look for materials, etc. My jewelry design career began.
Our studio is not big, with only four people. We run our own brand called "MY.WANCE Gemstone and Jewelry". We sell gemstones as well as our own original design pieces, and we also create bespoke jewelry for customers.
I believe that design is a fundamental element that can make things organized and logical. For example, consider a book, after design, it becomes much easier to read because the font size is appropriate, word spacing is reasonable, and paragraphs are clearly defined.
I understand that most people have regular jobs and can't wear anything too extravagant, so they tend to be less selective. However, I enjoy designing jewelry that is not too over-the-top but still special for those individuals.
The first piece of jewelry I designed was a pink rough spinel bracelet. I still remember the most difficult part was how to set the gems, as they don't have regular shapes and can't be set using a regular setting. Fortunately, after doing lots of research, I was finally able to figure it out.
My favorite gemstone is spinel. They come in all kinds of colors, including red, pink, purple, green and so on. They are hard and sparkling, which is why I love them the most.
I enjoy creating things when I am alone, in a quiet and silent environment. This is when I can listen to my inner voice and feel the most creative.
Meaningfulness is the most important aspect that I focus on when designing. I strive to create things that are meaningful for both myself and my customers.
It depends. Sometimes I feel really down, sometimes I feel up, sometimes I feel very calm, and sometimes I feel excited. I need these emotions to help me create.
I feel accomplished when my designs are realized. The sense of accomplishment is what drives me to continue designing.
Unique design, exquisite craftsmanship, customer recognition, and accreditation by professionals are all important factors to consider.
A design's practicality is my first consideration. While an innovative, creative, and colorful design may be visually appealing, it is not good if it cannot be used.
Grand Interview
22 November 2024 · Daphne Funzione primaria: Spilla e pendente
In designing the Daphne Brooch and Pendant, my intention was to create a visually captivating piece that transcends cultural boundaries by celebrating the universal theme of love. Drawing upon my understanding of both Greek mythology and Chinese culture, I sought to highlight the commonality between the two through familiar symbolism. By incorporating the laurel leaves from the Greek myth of Daphne and Apollo and pairing it with the Chinese moon motif, I sought to evoke an emotional resonance in audiences from both cultural backgrounds. The objective was to craft a piece that would prompt viewers to identify the symbolic elements, and through this recognition, establish a connection with the story of love depicted in the design. Ultimately, I aspired to bridge the narratives of these distinct cultures through the language of art and jewelry design, showcasing the shared human experience of love.
The selection of the 10.745ct rupee red tourmaline as the centerpiece of the Daphne Brooch and Pendant was deliberate and symbolic. The captivating gemstone's rich, red hue with its gentle pink undertone serves as a visual metaphor for the story's theme of passionate love and longing. Red is traditionally associated with deep affection and desire, and the pinkish tone adds an element of tenderness, subtly capturing the poignant emotions interwoven throughout the mythological narrative. Thus, the red tourmaline not only adds a visually striking element to the design but also enhances the story's emotional resonance by reflecting the complexity and depth of the characters' love, which oscillates between fiery passion and delicate longing. Ultimately, this exquisite gemstone helps bring the myth to life by inviting the wearer and the beholder to connect with the universal theme of love on a visceral level.
Designing the Daphne Brooch and Pendant with dual functionality as both a brooch and a pendant was a deliberate choice that serves both practical and creative purposes. On a practical level, this versatile design allows clients to wear the piece in different ways, adapting it to suit their personal style, preferences, and various occasions. By offering the flexibility of both a pendant and a brooch, the piece can effortlessly transition from day to night or from casual to formal settings, ensuring it remains a versatile and treasured item within the wearer's collection.From a creative standpoint, the dual-functionality concept reflects the transformative nature of the mythological story that inspired the design. The ability of the piece to adapt and change its form mirrors the metamorphosis experienced by the characters in the Greek myth, further deepening the connection between the design and its narrative roots. Ultimately, the decision to create a dual-purpose piece aimed to provide both aesthetic value and practical benefits to clients while paying homage to the myth's theme of transformation.
To make the story of Daphne accessible to Chinese audiences unfamiliar with Greek mythology, I drew upon the universal theme of love and connected it to a similar story from Chinese folklore—the legend of Chang’e and Hou Yi. This story is deeply ingrained in Chinese culture and also revolves around love, longing, and sacrifice, making it a natural bridge to introduce the essence of Daphne's tale.I incorporated the moon as a central element, symbolizing reunion and enduring love in the Chinese context, while juxtaposing it with the laurel leaves from Greek mythology. To maintain artistic integrity, I carefully unified these elements by designing them within a cohesive aesthetic framework. This approach ensured that the piece conveyed a harmonious balance of both cultural narratives while retaining a consistent design language that resonates universally.
To capture the dynamic effect of laurel leaves seemingly whirling in the wind, I intentionally avoided aligning the elements in a uniform or overly tidy manner. Each leaf, flower, and detail was positioned at varying angles and depths to evoke a sense of natural movement, with some elements appearing to be in the foreground and others receding into the background. This created a layered, three-dimensional effect that conveys the organic flow of wind.At the same time, maintaining a cohesive sense of direction was critical to ensure the design remained balanced and visually harmonious. While the individual elements vary in orientation, they collectively follow a subtle, unified trajectory, simulating the way leaves are swept in a single direction by a breeze. The technical challenge was ensuring that this dynamic arrangement could be executed in metal and stones without compromising structural integrity or wearability. Precision in setting and assembly was key to achieving this delicate balance.
When selecting the material to represent the moon in the Daphne Brooch and Pendant, I experimented with various options, including diamonds and flat polished gold. However, neither fully captured the delicate balance I was seeking. The moon in this piece is an essential element, but it’s not meant to dominate the design. It needed to exude a quiet, understated elegance—neither overly bright nor too plain, which could make such a large feature feel monotonous.Cabochon mother-of-pearl proved to be the perfect choice. Its semi-translucent quality and subtle iridescence beautifully convey the serene and noble essence of the moon as it’s portrayed in Chinese culture—a symbol of purity, tranquility, and enduring beauty. The natural texture within mother-of-pearl adds depth and character, aligning seamlessly with the cultural symbolism and enhancing the piece’s overall harmony.
The development of the Daphne Brooch and Pendant involved several key stages that were essential to bringing the design to life:1. Design Concept Phase: This stage focused on understanding the client’s style preferences and the intended purpose of the piece, as it was a bespoke design. I carefully considered the client’s outfit style and how the piece would complement their personal aesthetic, while also ensuring it aligned with my design philosophy. During this phase, I explored various ways to integrate the themes of love and cultural symbolism into a harmonious design.2. 3D Modeling and Technical Development: Once the design was finalized, the next critical stage was translating the concept into a precise 3D model. This involved working closely with a skilled 3D modeler to create a detailed digital representation of the piece. This process was not only vital for visualizing the design from all angles but also for ensuring its feasibility for production, particularly the intricate arrangement of the laurel leaves, moon, and gemstones.3. Material and Setting Selection: Parallel to these stages, significant attention was given to selecting the right materials and stone settings to achieve the desired aesthetic and functionality. Each choice was guided by the need to balance symbolism, artistry, and wearability.
The dimensional architecture of the Daphne Brooch and Pendant was carefully designed to balance both wearability and artistic expression. The overall round shape lends itself to versatility, as regular shapes are universally flattering and easy to pair with a variety of outfits—whether a suit, an evening gown, or a casual shirt.Its dual functionality as both a brooch and a pendant adds to its adaptability, allowing the wearer to style it for different occasions and settings. The dimensions (34.10mm x 35.10mm x 11.03mm) were thoughtfully chosen to ensure the piece is prominent enough to catch attention in social situations while remaining lightweight and comfortable for extended wear.This size and proportion also contribute to the narrative of the design. The depth (11.03mm) enhances the three-dimensional layering of the laurel leaves and moon, creating a dynamic, sculptural effect that captures the story's essence. The piece is designed not just to adorn but to engage and resonate with the viewer, bridging practicality and artistry seamlessly.
MY.WANCE Gemstone & Jewelry’s focus on original storytelling strongly resonated with my design philosophy, as it encouraged me to explore new, meaningful narratives through my work.
I’m truly grateful to the A' Design Award for the recognition of my work, as it not only validated my design approach but also helped my creative process gain acknowledgment from both industry professionals and a broader audience. This recognition has been incredibly motivating, giving me the confidence to explore and incorporate diverse cultural elements into my designs. It has reinforced my belief in the power of cross-cultural narratives and inspired me to push the boundaries of my creativity, aiming to create jewelry that resonates with audiences worldwide. Going forward, I am excited to continue developing pieces that celebrate the intersection of different cultures, offering meaningful and universally relatable stories through my designs.