Interview with Svetlana Fedina
StillSveta began in 2014 when Svetlana Fedina moved to Amsterdam in 2014, in search of a means to use her creative skills for a positive cause.
Design Legend Interview
4 July 2018
I always loved drawing from a very early age. While I was at school, I attended all possible extra-curricular arts and crafts courses. Then, I went to Moscow University to study Humanities. There I studied marketing and advertising design. After graduating I decided to go to the UK to learn English. Only there I realised that fashion is what makes my heart skip a beat. After completing my Master’s Degree in Fashion Marketing at Oxford Brooks University, I went to live in London. Shortly after I signed up for an evening course at the Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, covering Photography and Fashion Magazines Business. I haven’t stopped learning since then, my ambition is to continuously learn more about pattern making and natural techniques of dying wool.
I get great satisfaction from the creative process. It starts with a glimpse of idea. If I think about it for a few days, my mind automatically goes through every single detail. I store colours, shapes, sizes and general aesthetic inside my head. Then I make one or two rough sketches; take some notes of materials and then watch how it all comes to life. My motivation to create comes from within. I have a need and desire to create that is why I am a designer.
I really wanted to stand out at the school disco and wear something that turns everyone’s head. I quickly joined sewing class. For my first sawing project at school, I made silk flared trousers with snakeskin pattern on them. Then I though that my look would not be complete without snakeskin tunic. I rocked the disco looking fabulous and that is how my journey began.
At the moment I specialize in designing unisex jackets and coats made from organic wool. Recently I’ve been given a task to design for Dutch Sustainable Fashion Week. For this show they will be working with the four elements all representing consequences of the industry. They want to convey the message that consequences are unnecessary and can be solved. My task will be to show an example of alternative methods, and to design a sustainable collection. I can choose one of the four elements: water
representing the pollution and waste of water; fire representing all the textile waste that is being burnt; earth representing the pesticides being used, and air representing all the emissions of production and transport. It will be a great challenge and I am exited to design organic biodegradable clothes that carry an important message to take care of nature and think about the effect we have on the planet.
representing the pollution and waste of water; fire representing all the textile waste that is being burnt; earth representing the pesticides being used, and air representing all the emissions of production and transport. It will be a great challenge and I am exited to design organic biodegradable clothes that carry an important message to take care of nature and think about the effect we have on the planet.
As a self-taught fashion designer, I think its important to be brave and never say ‘I don’t know how to do it’. Instead say ‘I want to try’… and the good news is, no matter what stage of your career or how far afield your background may seem, if it’s something you aspire to, it’s entirely possible to find your niche in the design world.
Great designers understand their role in the production process and always have a timeframe within which to come up with their concept and show unquestionable execution. Great designers understand how to solve the problem creatively and they can focus on being the best at it. Great designers have a constant desire and drive to make existing products better or they are able to come up with something completely new and shake the minds of others.
Good design should serve a purpose. There are lots of useless 'innovations' that don't have any meaning. The most important stage of evaluating a design is first to know if it serves the purpose and second to see if it has meaning and value to others. Also, you shouldn't forget about great aesthetics!
In my opinion a good design should solve a problem. I designed a greener alternative to a classic leather biker jacket, made from organic wool. The aim of this design is to educate people of the importance of caring for the environment. I think investing in this particular design can solve multiple problems at once. Harvesting wool does not cause harm to the animal, it is much better than paying money for death of the animal. Wool products have a long lifespan, meaning that they can be worn longer. Wool jackets need to be washed less frequently, which has lower impact on the environment. Wool is one of the most recycled fibers and it biodegrades readily.
I want to pursue a career as a fashion designer with a main focus on sustainability. I want to design clothes that have better impact on the environment that is fair and ethical. I want to design for people in general and make them confident and happy, wearing clothes that have great value within.
I want to have a shop in Amsterdam, showcasing good quality sustainable fashion. I want it to be appealing to everyone who is aiming to have greener lifestyle. I imagine it could also be a platform for influencers, who can educate young people about where the clothes come from, how they are made and how we can help them to become more conscious in choices they make.
To achieve success in design you need a big bunch of happy thoughts, a pinch of determination, mixed with skills and creativity. The secret ingredient is a simple belief in yourself. Never add doubt, it will make your design soup taste a bit bitter.
I am inspired by designers such as Vivienne Westwood, a vocal activist for sustainable fashion and a climate change. She is also one of the Ethical Fashion Initiative’s first partners, with whom she developed her “Handmade with love” collection. All styles are created using recycled canvases, reused roadside banners, unused leather off-cuts, and recycled brass, all produced in Kibera slum (Nairobi’s biggest slum). The collections include a range of bag styles for men and women, including unisex rucksacks and totes. Vivienne Westwood also works with artisans in Burkina Faso who produce hand-woven fabrics for her womenswear lines.
Around the world, Scandinavian design is admired for its simplicity and efficiency. My latest purchase was a Humble Co. bamboo toothbrush. I love the design, but more so the idea behind it. The Humble Co. develops reliable health and wellness products, which are eco-friendly and socially responsible with an innovative twist. The health professionals at The Humble Co. translate evidence-based innovations into eco-friendly consumer products that are beneficial and fun for everyone to use, including underprivileged people living in remote communities. Humble Co. was founded to create products that are good for you and kind to the plant. Every Humble purchase goes towards funding projects for the benefit of children in need.
I think my latest unisex collection is the best project I’ve done so far. It challenges the concept of gender equality. Unisex clothes are not yet accepted by society as a norm, this suggests that the sexes are not yet truly equal. The solution was to blur that line, in order to demonstrate freedom of sexual roles. I used baby blue color of wool for both male and female jackets, challenging color as gender perception.
With the current situation of human-caused climate change, designers should start utilising renewable resources. Having a conscious mind and making conscious choices adds value to the designer, but also helps to preserve our planet.
I would have liked to work in an animal preservation organisation or company that helps to clean the ocean from plastic.
Design is materialising thoughts into objects or projects that serves people and helps them to integrate easy use of resources in their life.
My father always helped people, buying furniture and books for schools, supporting church and helping them to pay their gas bills. He taught me that the more you give the more you have in return. He is my inspiration and my biggest supporter.
My confidence and ambitions helped me achieve my goals. Also, a desire to change people’s perspective on overconsumption and creating a value that not only can be measured financially, but also has an ethical aspect.
The biggest obstacle was to find trustworthy production partners, who can help me to produce a high standard product. I went through a series of people with big promises, but not able to execute what I needed.
The French philosopher and mathematician Blaise Pascal once sent a letter to a friend in which, at the end, he wrote: ‘If I had more time, I would have written a shorter letter.’
I believe that simplicity is a key. I see a lot of products that are presented in a complex and cluttered manner, which can be distracting from its main purpose. Simple is hard. So designers should think how to write a shorter letter.
I believe that simplicity is a key. I see a lot of products that are presented in a complex and cluttered manner, which can be distracting from its main purpose. Simple is hard. So designers should think how to write a shorter letter.
I want to have a collection with fixed number of designs that serve two purposes: good quality and ethically produced, and to make people feel good about the purchase. I would also love to create a sustainable fashion showroom in Amsterdam.
I believe that fashion can be an effective way to convey a message, serving a higher purpose other than merely improving the appearance. My ultimate goal as a fashion designer is to create products that help to spread awareness of climate change, animal care and more sustainable way of life.
They will soon find out.
Design can be empowering, inspiring and enlightening. Great design can go from local to global, as an example of the bamboo toothbrush that I spoke about earlier. I think this product has all these qualities. For example, The Humble Smile Foundation brings together people that have chosen to share the responsibility of preventing oral disease. They work with like-minded organizations to deliver effective solutions that make a real difference to the lives of many.
I am working on the project for Dutch Sustainable fashion week. I am very exited to show my work to a wider audience and meet like-minded people.
Two years ago I was working on a capsule collection of coats where 10% of all profits were donated to an animal welfare organisation and ocean preservation campaign. It felt good doing it.
Mahatma Gandhi said ‘You must be the change you want to see in the world’. It is a very powerful quote that can inspire designers to create a product, idea or campaign whose goal is to make meaningful change in the world in which we live. I love the idea of Veronika Scott who came up with idea coat design that unfolds and turns into a sleeping bag, especially designed to help homeless people.
In recent years more people started to design with a purpose, a message and with a meaning to educate and make people more aware. People are creating techniques for cleaning up the oceans or coming up with delivering systems to distribute medicine to the parts of the world with poor roads. I hope many others will pick up the trends and collectively we can change the trajectory to preserve the planet for the next generations.
I prefer to be efficient with my work, so I can finalize a design within short duration of time.
First, I have an idea then I work my way around it. I do some research and write down all the steps from materials to final execution.
I already stated my two favourite quotes from Grandi and Pascal, other then that I try to ‘Stay calm no matter what’. For me clear mind and well-rested body is very important.
It can be both. When we face crisis, like the problem of coral bleaching, people activate all their responses. This event set designers and scientists to find a solution to prevent this from happening. Another example is a company who created a showerhead that minimises the use of water, while keeping the same pressure. Many companies that produce bathroom appliances picked up the trend and started to utilise it in their production design.
I am one of those people who will never switch from book to a kindle. I still design patterns by hand and use mannequins to fit the clothes. However, I do not underestimate the importance of technology. My goal is to learn more about technology of natural dying for fabrics and find new ways to make clothes durable and sustainable.
Normally, I work with Brother sewing and embroidery machines. Recently my boyfriend got me a new sewing machine from Toyota for my birthday. It is soon due for a test drive. I also use Adobe Illustrator for creating sketches of my designs and sometimes work with PatternSmith, but most manufacturers I worked with are using Lectra Software.
I admire people who choose to stand out and experiment with colors. I love designer Miranda Makaroff for her adventurous spirit and desire to enrich life with color. She takes her Instagram followers on wild roller coaster of different styles full of injections of various colors. Personally, I am more minimalistic with choice of color, but I try to include one or two styles in the collection that are more ‘out there’. Once I designed a purple coat with big anime eyes embroidered on the shoulders. I sold zero of them and found out that people in general think that purple color clothes are ugly. I totally disagree and I’ve been wearing this coat season after season.
It is always nice to speak about the importance of recycling materials, longevity of the design and in general spreading the word about the importance of ecological and ethical design methods.
I think how great that it exists and makes people happy.
So far I have been working by myself, but I secretly wish that I had someone by my side that shares my philosophy and values. If such a person will ever cross my path I will be very grateful. I believe in co-design and I think it makes the overall experience of the process much more satisfying.
I am an introvert with some extravert qualities. I do not think that people I interact with have an influence on my designs. I believe that books I read and everything that goes through the prism of my own perception has an impact on my designs.
‘The Hidden life of trees’ by Peter Wohlleben has opened my mind. He starts with wise words for those entering a forest: ‘Slow down, breathe deep and look around.’ Not only is the air cleaner under trees, as their leaves filter out harmful pollutants, but pine forests release defensive compounds that kill germs. Trees also release oxygen, so a walk in the woods is ‘like taking a shower in oxygen’. Wohlleben’s aim is to let us see the trees and forests around us not just as ‘lumber factories’ but live organisms that are as complex as any animal. He says that trees are ‘social beings’, communicating with each other through their roots. They have families and kids that they care for, delivering nutrients through the roots in the situation of illness of their relative. This book changed my perspective of the forest and gave even more passion for supporting nature.
I learned that meditation and yoga help me tremendously with being able to concentrate. At the moment I am also learning the Dutch language and which is teaching me about discipline. I think these qualities are very important when working on new designs.
I would have loved to talk to Nicola Tesla, the greatest inventor of all time. He said that he had a photographic memory, which helped him memorize whole books and speak eight languages. He also claimed that many of his best ideas came to him in a flash, and that he saw detailed pictures of many of his inventions in his mind before he ever set about constructing prototypes. As a result, he didn’t initially prepare drawings and plans for many of his devices. Nicola Tesla claimed to have developed a ‘superweapon’ that would end all wars, such a remarkable person!
It is very flattering to receive the award and be recognized, but it is much more important that a wider audience can now hear my message.
My favorite colors are white and blue. My favorite place is my parent’s garden. I like eating avocado and raspberries. Summer for me is the best. I like my vinyl player and listening to old records. My favorite brand is Alpro. This Belgian company markets organic and non-genetically modified, soy-based food and drink products. This is a great alternative to milk. I think the milk industry is extremely cruel, as cows produce milk for the same reason that humans do: to nourish their young. In order to force them to continue producing milk, factory farm operators typically impregnate them using artificial insemination every year. Calves are usually torn away from their mothers within a day of birth, which causes them both extreme distress. Mother cows can be heard calling for their calves for days. Male calves are destined to end up in cramped veal crates or barren feedlots where they will be fattened for beef, and females are sentenced to the same sad fate as their mothers.
Once I was on the eco-market in Amsterdam selling a few of my jackets. A big bearded man looking like a Viking approached my stand and bought one of my fluffiest pink jackets. It amused me and uplifted my spirits, and that was the only jacket I sold that day.
A cup of green tea in the morning and astrological reading sets my day. I don’t need much more motivation for the things I like doing.
While I was answering the questions in this interview, I had a childhood memory of questionnaire I use to do for kids at my primary school. I wasn’t yet able to write properly, but I decorated each page with with animal drawings. I folded pages as origami and the interviewer had to find out how to access the answers. This book was full of color. I glued pictures from my mum’s magazines and dad’s newspapers for entertainment of myself and other kids.
I hope that people will realize that trees are the lungs of our planet. I wish deforestation will come to the end and armies of people will plant new ones in each country.
I think I gave it all away =)
Designer Interview
3 May 2018
When I was a child, my parents worked in a porcelain factory. We had a beautiful collection of animal figurines, which I found fascinating. They came in all different sizes and shapes, some of them looking very unique. My parents treasured these fragile figurines, so I wasn’t allowed to play with them. I dreamed of one day making my own when I grew up so I could play to my heart’s content. My fascination with arts and crafts continued at primary school. After graduation, my mother received a big bag of drawings that our teacher collected during the time I was there. It was so heavy that we had to leave it behind that day so my dad could pick it up later with his car. At school I went to arts and crafts lessons, learning macramé, woodwork, sculpting, and embroidery. My sewing lessons started with an apron for my mother, and then swiftly moved to extravagant outfits for myself. I couldn’t wear them at school because we had a school uniform so would have regular fashion shows at home judged by my dog and two parrots. My further education and career was mainly focused on business but I reignited my creativity when I moved to Amsterdam four years ago. That is when I created the StillSveta fashion brand.
StillSveta is an organic clothing brand based in Amsterdam. StillSveta believes that fashion should not only improve the appearance, but be fair and ethical. StillSveta believes that eyes are the doors of perception, which is why a logo of an eye represents the brand. Eyes have a strong symbolic value, symbolizing curiosity and wisdom. Each collection is an exploration of consciousness, aiming to spread awareness of animal care and a sustainable way of life.
Design is an expression of creative thought through various mediums that serves a purpose and makes peoples lives easier and more exciting.
I like designing jackets the most, but my journey as a fashion designer has only just begun. I am still in the exploration stage and finding out about my own taste and style. However, what is very clear to me is that I want to focus on organic and ethical fashion. I want continue creating beautiful alternatives of outwear that is biodegradable and healthy to wear without involving animal cruelty.
My favourite design is a unisex biker jacket made of organic wool. It comes in three different colours (black, blue and pink) and can be worn by both men and women. All jackets have a unique lining inside that is produced in a socially responsible printing organisation in US.
I was looking for a classic coat for winter and I could not find anything to my taste. I decided to make it myself. At the time I was reading a book about the history of Japanese fashion. I was intrigued by simple designs with complex execution of printmaking and embroidery. Inspired by that, I made an indigo colour wrap coat with bright cartoonish eyes, embroidered on shoulders. This coat became a subject of conversations with strangers on the street and my first business success.
My favourite materials are organic wool and cotton. I like ‘Not just a label’ platform where I was first featured. It showcases designers and their work from around the world. It gave me first publicity and recognition, which I am very grateful about. My choice of technology is a Brother embroidery machine. With this embroidery machine possibilities are limitless, you just need to unleash your creativity.
I feel the most creative when I walk in the warehouse in search of fabrics. Looking at various colours and feeling different textures make me want to run back to the studio and get started on a design.
I focus on the comfort of the garment, the durability and sustainability of the fabrics, as well as the general aesthetic. I like classic shapes with a contemporary twist: designs that are fresh and interesting to look at.
I enjoy the preparation for projects, sourcing for fabrics makes me feel excited. I try to stay focused while I design, but once the project is finished, here comes the excitement and satisfaction. Overall, I just feel content that I do what I love.
I am hesitant to be satisfied with the end product until I see the jacket that I have created on the model. For many years I worked in the photography studio as a fashion stylist. Now I organise and prepare photoshoots for my brand myself. Good design is invisible and touches nobody without being presented effectively. It helps to communicate the message and philosophy of the brand. I feel relieved if I am able to see what I am trying to say through the photographs.
I think simplicity is key. That is why most images of StillSveta designs have a white background. I believe that good quality, clear presentation and an easily understood message are very important. In that case you get more chances that people are going to come back to you. The last aspect is to be fun. Being a bit quirky and cheeky with your designs makes people smile.
Good design should be clear. When you look at it you say ‘I get it!’ Good design attracts positive attention, it makes people look at and use it with joy and ease. Bad design is confusing, dull and sometimes even annoying. Clean and clear design creates a sense of understanding and trust.
Designers have a direct impact on society and environment. I believe in designs that protect biodiversity and products that do not harm the environment. Designers should take into account current environmental concerns and show how we can help to restore ecological balance, by using recyclable materials. Designers should make conscious choices and come up with solutions on how to improve and advance our life by being in tune with nature.
Faster than ever our world is changing. Overpopulation, environmental damage, climate change, natural disasters, ocean pollution, and the bleaching of corals are all realities that we are facing and that we have to overcome. Therefore, designers should consider the impact of their work on these current environmental concerns. There has been a big shift towards finding new methods of renewable energy, cleaning the ocean campaigns, growth of educational documentaries on the impact we have on the planet. I hope that the future of design is moving in this direction too: towards fair, responsible and more ecological methods of work.
I have not exhibited my work yet. I hope I can showcase my work in the near future.
Things I feel very strongly about, such as animal welfare and sustainability have inspired me. My recent diving trip has also left a big impact of me. It created a desire to preserve that overwhelming beauty of nature.
StillSveta’s style is fresh, young and a bit rebellious, with some elements of classic. I equally love both rock-and-roll and jazz music. That is why these two seemingly incompatible aspects of my personality result in edgy but classic designs and cuts. My approach to design can be described as intuitive. I trust my own judgments. I prefer to not think twice and to be assertive when working on new designs.
I am originally from Russia. I lived in the UK for many years. Four years ago I moved to the Netherlands. The transition from my youth to adulthood happened while I was living in London. I most certainly feel that my views on style and fashion were shaped in this capital. London has this rebellious spirit and a great diversity that creates a unique bubble. I learned about the 60s and the MODs culture, by watching British films and going to festivals and music concerts. I believe you can see a bit of British influence on my designs. At the moment my life in the Netherlands is very much balanced. I like how liberal and free the society is, and how open people are to the arts and culture. I feel treasured and appreciated here for what I do.
Recently I was asked to participate in the start-up project called NOFIRM. This company has created a platform where fashion designers can create without limits and wastage. Orders are collected for each design, and only produced when an ecologically viable volume is reached. Most people agree with the concept of slow fashion. But for some people, who are so used to ordering clothes online with next-day delivery, this concept could feel alien. Therefore, there is a big challenge for this company to change consumers spending habits in order to be able to succeed. I prefer to work with companies that have similar views and want to bring something positive to our collective consciousness.
No matter what your occupation is, there are some professional qualities that should be present. The designer should be reliable and ambitious. Having taste, vision and style important if you work in fashion industry is important. You can see if the designer is talented judging by previous work and achievements. Other than that, I think only through personal interaction it is possible to make a fair assessment.
I think that the most important part of the design process is coming up with the concept. The idea should sweep you off your feet and create an immediate urge to start prototyping. The rest will all follow in good time. A recent example is when I was reading a lot about gender equality. I have a lot of sympathy and understanding for transgender people. I see that their lives are not always easy. They are not yet accepted by society as a norm. I thought how great would it be if my boyfriend and I could share one jacket, and if people accepted us both rocking baby blue wool biker jackets together. What if a boy who transforms to a girl can wear this jacket anytime, disregarding of gender he or she chooses at the time. It felt liberating. That is how the process on my unisex collection started.
When I moved to Amsterdam, my dad came from Russia to help me with the move. He bought me a really funny piglet-shaped table-lamp wearing a dressing gown while holding the lamp as a candle. It makes me smile each time I look at it. I also like my 60s inspired wooden record player and old wall poster showing different types of fish.
I find routine boring, but there are some things that I do quite regularly: cycling, practising yoga, learning Dutch, drinking tea and red wine, reading, and browsing the organic food market.
I have two motivational quotes that stand on my table. One goes: ‘‘should, would, could, did’’. It tells me that doubts are a waste of time. You can only experience something new by doing something new. The second one goes: ‘what you do every day matters more than what you do once in a while’. It reminds me that I have chosen the path of designer for a reason, so despite any obstacle or drawback, I should stick with what makes me happy. Eventually, by systematic and on-going work you are going to get very good at what you do and have the success you deserve.
The clothing industry is the second largest polluting industry in the world. It has a long supply chain of production, dying raw materials, manufacturing of textiles, international shipping, global retail, the use of the garments (including constant washing and dry cleaning) and eventually, disposal of the garment. All these factors create environmental damage, as fast fashion creates an extreme demand for quick and cheap clothes. There are some big fashion designers like Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney and Ralph Lauren, who are taking the lead towards reshaping fashion industry. In my opinion, the change will only be possible if mainstream brands like H&M or Zara are going to find a way to make their business more sustainable. From a positive side, fashion designers can reduce their environmental footprint or the company’s by choosing more sustainable fabrics. This leads to better health of people, animals and nature.
Robert Swan said: ‘The greatest threat to our planet is the belief that someone else will save it’. Making a difference starts with individual. My golden rule is to believe in yourself and design with love to the nature in mind.
I think being able to stick with your vision is an important skill to have. It is also the hardest. With growing impact of social media, anyone can express their opinion about your work. Some people can speak negatively of your designs and tell what they could do instead. Once, one of my designs had a long mean comment on a fashion blog, saying that my embroidery looks like I bought it pre-made in a cheap shop. Reading this was upsetting, but it didn’t stop me making other people happy, who liked my designs and have chosen to wear it.
My professional inspiration is linked to my personal inspiration. The work of fellow artists, designers and creatives gives me a great source of motivation. Trying something new, like learning to dive or surfing brings me joy. Leaving city surroundings and going to the countryside is also very inspiring.
When I went to Oxford Brookes University, we had to study different tools and methods of time management. We had to write about our progress everyday, recording when we procrastinate. It taught me how to organise my time efficiently and be more disciplined with my working process. But I do allow myself the occasional break for a nice cookie or a browse on Tumblr.
It all depends of the difficulty of the task, but I think one week is plenty.
‘Where did you buy that coat?’
I also work as a freelance fashion stylist. I have experience working with different brands, styling models, products and interior. I worked on advertising commercials, video and online productions. I styled look books for other designers and magazine editorials. This experience was and is the most valuable.
I work with a few shops in the Netherlands and I have ongoing collaboration with sustainable project called NOFIRM.
I like sourcing for fabrics and learning about new sustainable brands that produce fastenings, zips and buttons. I find final stages of the project particularly exciting. When I see how my designs fit on the model, I can visualise styling, lighting and think of some ideas for final images.
In October 2018 I will be participating in the Dutch Sustainable Fashion Week, which is exciting news for me. I will be able to showcase my work and discuss potential work projects. I hope more of my jackets can reach stores' hangers. I also hope to spread more information about my eco-friendly designs.
I work by myself, but I hope I will be able to find a suitable business partner soon.
I am constantly expanding my unisex collection and thinking of styles I can add to it. I want to have a substantial amount of genderless clothes that looks amazing on both men and women.
You can check my work at www.stillsveta.com and contact me via email: hello@stillsveta.com