Interview with Hekne
Anja Hekne is the designer behind HEKNE, a Norwegian fashion design company belonging to the slow fashion movement. She founded the company together with Siglinde Lunde in 2013.
Design Legend Interview
12 May 2017
In the last year of high school we had this long project that we worked on for a whole year parallel to all the other subjects. I chose to write about the history of the wedding dress, and for the practical part of the project I made a one. That was when I started to understand that fashion design could be a possible career choice.
After one year of costume design in Norway I moved to London to do my BA in fashion design at Ravensbourne College. The second year of my BA I did at ESDi in Barcelona as an exchange student. This way I got the chance to experience both the crazy London creativity as well as the more commercial approach that they had in Spain. That was a great combination and helped my find my own personal path.
I have also learnt a lot doing internships, in different countries and in different size companies. I have been very lucky to be an intern in companies that gave me a lot of freedom, challenges and support. That’s been very valuable.
After one year of costume design in Norway I moved to London to do my BA in fashion design at Ravensbourne College. The second year of my BA I did at ESDi in Barcelona as an exchange student. This way I got the chance to experience both the crazy London creativity as well as the more commercial approach that they had in Spain. That was a great combination and helped my find my own personal path.
I have also learnt a lot doing internships, in different countries and in different size companies. I have been very lucky to be an intern in companies that gave me a lot of freedom, challenges and support. That’s been very valuable.
I always enjoyed working with my hands and being creative. Becoming a fashion designer has never been my childhood dream though, it was more like every other alternative slowly got eliminated the more I learnt… And when deciding to found Hekne together with my business partner and we established our brand and philosophy, it became clear that there’s absolutely nothing else that will make me more happy than being able to live from this.
Designing for Hekne has not only allowed me to use my hands and creativity, but I can be a part of changing the fashion industry into become more sustainable. That makes my work very meaningful for myself personally.
Designing for Hekne has not only allowed me to use my hands and creativity, but I can be a part of changing the fashion industry into become more sustainable. That makes my work very meaningful for myself personally.
Becoming a designer was a choice I did only for myself and I’m very grateful for being so privileged that I’m able to make that choice.
I design womenswear, both knit and woven. It would be nice to see if we could expand to design also for men and children in the future.
Do internships and gather experience from as many fields of design as possible, follow your heart and allow yourself to use time finding your own path and voice.
When judging my own work for Hekne, I consider the most successful designs to be the ones that many people (including myself) find a love for, when the choice of materials prove to be great and the designs at the same time match the brand’s philosophy and signature look.
Good design works better and lasts longer. If more people invested in good design, we would have a more sustainable world today.
My dream project is to expand Hekne’s portfolio to include more designs for a wider group of people. That’s a project that needs time and that I want to take time.
Finding a balance where you listen to other people and are open to feedback, without compromising your own core values.
My favourite design from what I've made so far is the Monteverde coat from Hekne's first collection. It was inspired in an old anorak that I bought second hand and that I liked a lot. I made a wool version of it, with a cleaner look, but kept the oversized anorak style. It was just perfect in the cold winter when living in Copenhagen, as it has lots of space for extra layers. It also had space enough for my pregnant belly and later on for carrying my baby boy in a baby wrap - no need to change winter coat! The fact that it’s so versatile and useful, and also because it’s made of durable materials that will last long, makes the coat a great design.
I definitely became a better designer gaining experience from different fields. Internships, jobs and studies all gave me new knowledge and challenges.
I have no idea!
Design to me is the whole process from choosing materials to approve the final product. It's also about using the voice and influence that you have as a designer to make a statement that you believe in yourself.
My family.
As a designer you have a stronger voice than the consumer, and with that comes a great responsibility. You are a role model and you have to think carefully about every choice you make. By being aware of this and using your role wisely, designers can make a big difference in making a better society.
That’s a secret!
I hope we will get better at taking care of nature and the people that are involved in the production of our designs.
Every Hekne collection is inspired by the colours of a selected bird, so I always start with finding a match between available materials and a bird, in order to set the colour palette. I then gather ideas that I've collected and work on them until I arrive to a ready set of designs.
I love to use my hands and non technological tools, but the truth is that the part of the design process involving my computer takes up much more of my time.
I use the Adobe Photoshop, Illustrator and InDesign.
For us the colours, materials and ambient are the most important part of our visual concept. It’s all connected to the concept of birds and nature that binds our designs and brand together.
I get happy when people ask for more details regarding the fabrics and materials, as that’s something we put a lot of thought and work into.
Hekne was established by me and my childhood friend Siglinde. Even though she’s not a designer, she’s my ideal design partner as well as business partner. Everything that I do, is done together with her. As I want my designs to be used by many different people, it’s valuable to me to also share the design process with someone else.
Designer Interview
1 May 2017
I knew early on that I wanted to do something creative, but it wasn't before I had graduated from high school that I thought about fashion design as an option. I decided to give it a try, and the more I learnt, the more sure I got.
Hekne was established by Siglinde Lunde and I in 2013. We used the first three years to test, explore, research, and to create the concept and the brand, before launching our first collection in the autumn 2016. While I'm in charge of the design process, Siglinde is responsible for sales and PR. Everything else is shared between us.
Design is much more than deciding the look of things, it's the whole process from choosing materials to approve the final product. It's also about using the voice and influence that you have as a designer to make a statement and choice that you belive in yourself.
Jackets and knitted sweaters!
My favourite design from what I've made so far is the Monteverde jacket from Hekne's first collection. It was inspired in an old anorak that I bought second hand and liked a lot. I made a wool version of it, with a cleaner look, but kept the oversized anorak style. It was just perfect in the cold winter when living in Copenhagen, as it has lots of space for extra layers. It also had space enough for my pregnant belly and later on for carrying my baby boy in a baby wrap - no need to change winter jacket!
I made a few designs that were selected for production when doing my internships. I don't remember if the first one was a dress or a pair of shorts. (The shorts proved to be quite a failure...it looked beautiful, but wasn't specially functional. Great learning experience!)
When being able to use my hands; being in direct touch with the medium I'm working with.
The choice and combination of materials and colours.
It varies, from pure excitement to a deep calmness, and with a portion of frustration once in a while. I often get so caught up that I forget everything else.
I often feel proud, but I'm also self critical and might doubt whether it's actually good enough.
It's always very exciting when the final products arrive from the producers, after waiting and working for so long.
It's always very exciting when the final products arrive from the producers, after waiting and working for so long.
When it's understood and loved by many people.
Whether the shape and function works well, and whether the materials work as expected.
As a designer you have a stronger voice than the consumer, and with that comes a great responsibility. You are a role model and you have to think carefully about every choice you make.
To us personally there are no alternatives to keeping your company as sustainable as we can, but we are also trying to express our philosophy in order to influence the industry and consumer behaviour that we have today.
To us personally there are no alternatives to keeping your company as sustainable as we can, but we are also trying to express our philosophy in order to influence the industry and consumer behaviour that we have today.
Within fashion design we clearly see the wave of slow fashion growing and I sincerely hope that we can evolve into a more sustainable industry, with a more healthy buying behaviour.
All our collections are inspired by birds. Every collection carries the colour of one selected bird, and this way they all belong to one greater visual concept.
I get inspiration from the birds' colours, matched with fabrics and yarn, but also from many other different sources. It might e.g. be from books, films or nature, or from old garments and favourites from my wardrobe.
I get inspiration from the birds' colours, matched with fabrics and yarn, but also from many other different sources. It might e.g. be from books, films or nature, or from old garments and favourites from my wardrobe.
I want to make clothes that can be used many times and for many occasions, and that can be easily washed. From that they naturally get classic and clean, and might be called Scandinavian style. My designs are also quite feminine and have few, but well thought details.
I currently live in Barcelona, after a few years in London and Copenhagen. I left my home country several years ago, but still feel very attached to Norway. My childhood and cultural background, growing up so close to Norway's beautiful nature, clearly shows in the philosophy and concept of Hekne.
It starts with finding a match between available materials and a bird, in order to set the colour palette. I then gather ideas that I've collected and work on them until I arrive to a ready set of designs. These are developed into spec drawings and then turned into proto samples. I correct the proto samples once or twice, before the final products are made.
I have a one and a half year old, so I spend most of my day with him. I work while he's sleeping or when my husband or his grandparents are helping me out.
Ask for help! And use enough time to test and search and research.
The most positive is being able to do something creative. What some times feels hard and stressful is when there's too much other things that steel my time.
Pens and paper, thread and needle, bird books, computer with Photoshop, Indesign and Illustrator.
Doing internships in different companies.
I hope Hekne can grow to a level that makes it possible to live from it.
I do most of the work myself, but I always ask my partner for feedback. We work very closely.
We have some projects in-progress, but they are secret!
Through our web site or social media profiles.