Interview with Amanda Gerbasi
Coming from a family of artists Amanda understands design as form of art, and art as an expression of freedom.
Design Legend Interview
4 May 2017
I studied architecture for a short time at a university in Brazil before moving to the UK. Once in the UK I ended up studying languages and literature but soon after graduating I went back to pursuing design. Since then I have completed a variety of courses including gemmology, photography and graphic design.
At some point I realised designing/creating had an incredible strong pull for me. Nothing else captures my interest as much as designing.
I chose to become a designer and I hope I can continue to be one for a long time.
Since starting my brand KATTRI I not only design jewellery but I have learned quite a bit of graphic design and I also enjoy that. However, I love to design unusual very contemporary almost futuristic designs such as the Tetrahedron ring. These types of design are usually very time consuming and are not always the most sellable.
Be true to their design aesthetic and be persistent.
A good designer creates something that is appreciated for a certain time. A great designer creates something that is appreciated, if not for all time, for a much longer length of time. Because beauty has a universal and long lasting appeal.
I think a really good design has a universal kind of beauty. It should also serve its function well and easily. If on top of that it possesses an element of innovation than it is truly a great design.
Many studies show that living amongst good design has a positive impact on human psyche. It improves productivity, raises morale and increases the overall quality of life. I believe beauty is something that all humans inherently appreciate. Much like good music, good design enriches life and touches people in a way that might not even realise.
I always design for a strong fashion-forward woman. I would love to design for a really big brand that has a lot of resources available, such as Swarovski.
I have been wanting to explore this design for earrings inspired by a communication tower designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava that I believe will result in a very unusual and exciting pair of earrings!
I like many of the modernist designers such as Ludwig Mies Van der Rohe and Arne Jacobsen and from our contemporaries I like Philippe Stark and specially Zara Hadid.
I love Philippe Stark and Eugeni Quitllet Masters Chair which combines three chair silhouettes from different modernist masters. Anything designed by Zara Hadid looks amazing, including her still not executed buildings. These are some of the designers that in mu opinion are advancing the aesthetics of their industry. Their are real visionaries.
Practice.
If I hadn't become a designer I believe I would have become a literary translator. I love the challenge of having to translate a language with all its specific cultural references into another one. Its not only about knowing the languages themselves but the history and culture of their countries.
I would define design as the capacity to imagine forms (in varied industries) that present an aesthetic value while still fulfilling their function well.
My parents are great and have always supported me. My life partner has also helped me and taught me a lot and helps me to keep believing in myself when times are tough.
I intend to produce collections with a more accessible price points in silver. I will keep designing complex avant-garde pieces to be made in precious metals which will be available for sale, however, I will only produce these on demand.
I would love to be able to created beautiful innovative designs for a very long time and to make a comfortable living from this work. I also like to imagine my designs being relevant and appreciated hundreds of years from now.
I am excited about starting to work with silver as I will be able to make bigger pieces.
I think the Tetrahedron ring with which I have won this award is a very satisfactory project. It was very challenging and time consuming and not only I was incredibly happy with the final but it has been well appreciated by other people too!
I like to start by looking for references in other fields such as light fixtures and furniture design.
I think this is like the chicken or the egg dilema. I believe in the existence of a collective unconscious and as our society changes our aesthetic also changes. I would say design and trends, therefore, walk hand in hand. Both influence one another and both help our aesthetic to progress.
Knowing the manufacturing technologies available in the jewellery industry allows me to design certain forms or in a way that it wouldn't be possible if these technologies did not exist.
I use a PC for the 3D CAD/CAM software and imac with Microsoft creative suite for graphic design and photo editing. I also have a good Canon camera and small light/studio set (as all my photography is done in house).
Colour, materials and ambient are capable of creating a specific mood or atmosphere. The use of light colours in a design it will produce different results than the use of dark colours and will most likely give raise to different kinds of emotions in the user/viewer.
"Can I buy it?"
"Amazing! Who was the genius that designed that?" or "I wish I had designed that!"
Siddhartha Gautama, the Buddha.
First of all I am not famous and second I haven't won very many awards. I am hoping this award is going to help me promote my work and thus provide me with more business opportunities.
I don't really have a favourite colour, I love colour in general but I have noticed I have a lot of clothes in a kid of purple/burgundy sort of colour. For gemstone I am more attracted to greens and blues.
I have this friend who always helps me in exhibitions and trade fairs and whenever someone comes to enquire about the jewellery they always think she's the designer, they never think is me!
My day is great if I have no pressing issues and can totally focus on designing. It is an even better day if I feel I had a great idea for a design or if I have been able to translate and arrive at a great final design.
I am sad I will miss the unimaginable technological advances and the changes they will bring in the way we live. The innovations in materials and manufacturing will take the possibilities of design to new heights.
Designer Interview
28 April 2017
I studied architecture in Brazil for a short period before I moved to the U.K. Although I enjoyed the design side I found the course in Brazil was very technical and did not focus on the creative side enough.
Once in the U.K. I decided to study languages and literature – other passions of mine – and thought of becoming an interpreter or literary translator. My heart was not burning for it though.
Then I was invited to do a work experience to possibly became a partner in a friend’s newly founded womenswear label. I loved the experience and during that time I found my mind bubbling with jewellery design ideas. The kind of designs I wanted to wear but could not find around. So instead of joining my friend’s I decided to start my own jewellery brand, KATTRI.
Once in the U.K. I decided to study languages and literature – other passions of mine – and thought of becoming an interpreter or literary translator. My heart was not burning for it though.
Then I was invited to do a work experience to possibly became a partner in a friend’s newly founded womenswear label. I loved the experience and during that time I found my mind bubbling with jewellery design ideas. The kind of designs I wanted to wear but could not find around. So instead of joining my friend’s I decided to start my own jewellery brand, KATTRI.
KATTRI is an independent brand envisioned by me. I wanted to create a modern, straightforward and no-frills brand. Besides the branding I also created the name KATTRI. The double “T” is a reference to the mathematical symbol “Pi”, representing the precision involved in jewellery design and manufacturing.
Design for me is a form of art and all arts for me are expressions of freedom. This freedom is born out of the desire human beings have of searching and creating something outside themselves. Of expanding and becoming something more than what we are.
My favourite design is actually the ring I won this award with, the Tetrahedron Ring. This is because not only I had a clear vision of what I wanted to achieve but it was also the most challenging piece of jewellery I have designed to this day. To the 3D modelling on CAD to convincing the lapidary to cut the stone in that shape and dimensions.
From the time I learned how to use CAD/CAM software I felt in love with it. I just find it amazing to be able to create in 3D and have such an accurate vision of the piece as you designed it. It is especially useful during the initial development phase when I am testing different aspects of the design – such as the thickness of the sections or the angle of an element – that can seem unimportant but have an enormous effect on the final result.
I think creativity needs space to manifest itself. So if I have to deal with a lot of other things I feel my creativity can get a bit stifled. So I believe is important to set aside some time in the day, week or month to dedicate fully to creativity. I think like anything the more you exercise it the better it becomes.
For me design is primarily a matter of aesthetics. I automatically think of form before anything else. After I have a fairly clear image of what I want to achieve aesthetically I start to think of function and how to combine the two without losing the essence of the form I envisioned.
I feel excited to (hopefully) be creating something new to bring into existence. At the same time, I feel a sort of serenity or equanimity to be so completely absorbed in something outside myself. Although you could say that those ideas are coming from my mind the focus of my existence at those moments is not on me and the stories, memories and hopes of my ‘self’. At that time, only that piece of jewellery exists.
I feel an incredible anticipation when I am about to see my designs realized. If I am satisfied with the result, I feel elated. Finally, I feel fascinated by the design itself – as I feel with any design that I am attracted (by other people).
In my experience a design is successful when I follow my instincts and pursue an idea or inspiration I am passionate about and not when I pursue a trend. I believe it is when I am being true to myself that my creativity really shines and I am able to create something authentic. Furthermore, a successful design must possess a timeless quality.
We are witnessing so many amazing scientific and technological advancements in our time and these allow the design field to evolve in incredible ways. In the jewellery industry direct metal laser sintering in precious metals allows designs with incredibly thin sections to be made. The laser torch allows to only a very small and precise area to be heated which enables other gemstones besides diamonds to be set in ways that would not have been possible without it – like the setting in the Tetrahedron ring.
I studied architecture briefly and I love visiting architecture blogs and websites. I also like furniture and lighting design very much and visit website of these too. However, my inspiration usually just comes from all that I am exposed to in daily life. The world is such a dynamic and globalized place and inspirations are everywhere, I usually just need to decide which ones to pursue.
At present I would describe my style as evolving. I started with very minimal designs with very few lines and no details and went onto more complex geometric shapes. Now I am veering towards more organic (non-figurative) designs. My approach to design is intuitive therefore what leads me to explore such styles are unconscious forces paired with my evolving aesthetic taste. I do not wish to limit myself to a single style as I believe change is life itself.
I start researching and collecting references related to the idea or inspiration I have in mind. I then contemplate and evolve the idea further in my mind. I then sketch it out or go straight to model it on CAD/CAM software in the case of a geometric design. If it is an organic design, I source an appropriate material to work with my hands to explore the shapes I have mind. Once the overall form is defined I start to refine the design in terms of proportion, angles and thicknesses. I then decide the colours of the metal and of the gemstones. Finally, I determine the finish on the metal and the type of chain and fastenings.
The most positive thing about being a designer in my opinion is that you are bringing beautiful things into existence and that for me is the best thing ever! The negative part I believe is that a lot designers struggle with the commercial side of things and wish they didn’t have to deal with it. I am a great example of this. I find it very difficult and really dislike it. I wish I could only design beautiful things without ever having to deal with the money side.
Avoid compromising the design. Don't give in easily. Push yourself (and others if you work in a team) to find a solution that does not compromise the design.
Even though I design jewellery which has a completely different life span than clothes I follow the fashion calendar. Therefore, there are two main times in the year where I focus on to launch new collections and participate in trade fairs and exhibitions. The whole year is organized around these times and so there’s a timeline for designing and developing the collections.
Companies or shops interested in partnerships can contact me at sales@kattri.com and press can contact me at press@kattri.com