Interview with Abhisaar Saxena

Growing up I have always wanted to take up a creative field of career. I chose fashion as my subject because it connected with me more. The major factor that lead me to become a designer was the desire to create something that is very expressive and passionate.

For every new project I work on a riveting theme, I work my way from a theme to creating a desired look that matches the essence of the label. During my design process I essentially focus on the look of the collection, the construction details and the fit of the product. I work with muslin samples to perfect the final product.

I feel eager and excited while designing.

I believe my interest in history and technicality has helped my grow as a designer. Even during my foundation years in college I have been very keen on understanding the history of fashion.

I had started as a fashion student trying to make eye-catchy and outstanding garments. With a lot of learning and experience as a professional today I believe in making clothing that is made keeping in mind the design aesthetics and the impact it would have on the audience. I would like to be seen and remembered as a designer who is not afraid to take inspiration from non-conventional elements, someone who appreciates women empowerment and is willing to express his opinion through his designs.

It is essential for young designers to have patience and the ability to own responsibility. It is always a good idea to keep a track of the developments in the fashion industry and to be updated with it at all times. The best advice that I have received so far has been to give every decision good amount of time, which taught me to never rush through with any of my decisions.

The most important aspect of being a successful designer is to be completely aware of where your label stands, not only design wise but also in terms of finances and brand positioning.

It starts with a coffee and status updates of all the on-going tasks and ends with preparing a list of things completed and setting deadlines for important tasks. Through the day there is lot of sketching, researching, supervising pattern and construction and many other tasks. I really enjoy seeing my completed products being wrapped and packaged, which doesn’t happen everyday but it is exciting any given day.

I read a lot of fashion related news, keep up with the trends that are being highlighted by the media and refer to a few trusted trend forecasting websites. I am aware of the trends and the fads that exist in the market but I prefer working without the restriction of trends. I honestly believe that a design can live longer if not restricted by the ‘It’ trend of the time hence, I aim to create the ‘timeless’ feel in my collections.

A good design originates with a good concept and is translated to a functional and timeless design.

I always start with a rough framework of all that I aim to create in my design, when all my points are matched I know my design is complete.

I believe my biggest design work is yet to come.

I find Alexander McQueen to be very inspiring. He had the courage to portray his concepts fearlessly and be one of the few people who were successful at bringing around a change in the fashion industry with their revolutionary approach.

I practice an open and friendly work culture, I encourage my associates to have their creative freedom, they are always welcome to discuss their inputs and design ideas. We follow deadlines more than a routine. As a team it is important to me that we are individually and collectively productive.

I arrange for small seminars for all my skilled workers and artisans on adapting professionalism and building a healthy work ethic.

My complete journey with A’ Design Award has been very enriching. It is satisfying to see your designs being appreciated on an international platform among the works of several other talented creators.

The desire to create something that is very expressive and passionate drove me to become a designer.

I chose to become a designer.

Currently my design collections are more of ready-to-wear pieces, I am interested to work on couture designs.

It is important to be steady and focused.

Good designers generally tend to focus on functionality and problem solving. Great designers incorporate the additional element of a meaningful concept and a great product experience.

A meaningful concept and value addition to the design can elevate a design from being just good.

I believe that the life of a product and the user experience justifies the value of a good design. It is always advisable to invest in a good design as it is a satisfactory purchase and will last you a long time.

I would like to come up with a collection that that serves as a tribute to all the wonderful designers that I have been an inspiration to me.

There is no definite recipe to success but if you must know I have two secrets ingredients, ‘exploration and analysis’.

Alexander McQueen, Stephan Rolland and Issey Miyake.

I like the work of designers who portray powerful concepts in the most apt way. The understanding and translation of concept to design is something that impresses me.

I believe I am yet to attempt my great design.

I started being a critic to my work and I always review my work honestly to come up with better results.

Architecture or Space designing

Design is a creative solution, something that facilitates a function in an innovative manner.

My parents.

Patience, study and hard work.

I feel designers should always present their work in the best and most suitable manner, which supports their concept or inspiration.

I want to live through my designs, and be remembered as a designer that worked with unconventional inspirations, stood for change in the society and promoted empowerment of women.

People generally expect a lot of innovation and trend-setting designs.

The quality and literacy rate among the skilled labor.

A few hours or even a couple of days at times, depends on the vastness of the project.

Research and story line.

I like to keep it simple. Simplicity I believe is most expressive and can be easily understood too.

Design sets trends.

I work on the Adobe suite for most of my graphic work.

Design is entirely dependent on color, material and ambient.

Alexander McQueen.

Probably yes, even though I wasn’t very artistic as a child, I was very creative I would come up with new games, modify toys and had the hardest time shopping since I never liked what the market offered then.

I am sure we will be living in a super advanced lifestyle and we would have discovered a solution for all the troubles our planet is facing today.

Pamilone is a luxury label that frames its design aesthetic to be understated elegance. Influenced by the linear form of structure, timeless fashion ethics and diverse contemporary ingenuity, the label is synonymous with finessing the sophistication and desire to out do the expression of modern fashion. Under this label I create fashion that is rebellious and feminine with a sense of enigma and raw energy. I ensure that the design process of the label encourages the garments to have a voice and structure. The label revolves around the juxtaposition of 'minimal - extravagance' and 'structured - fluidity'. My design studio is based in the outskirts of Thane, India which is a neighboring city to Mumbai.

Design to me is the evolution of a desire to a vision and further into a beautiful and functional product. The purpose of a design is to fulfill needs and wants of the people. Every design is created to either enhance an experience or to present a solution to an existing problem.

The beauty of a product lies in the perception drawn by the design to define 'who you are!'. I enjoy creating pieces influenced by structured minimalism. I begin with noting the experience that I want the client to perceive when they wear my designs, and build my way to the look, feel and construction of the garments. I work on creating an image rather than a singular product. It is exciting to build the complete look that compliments the garment, with appropriate footwear, accessories, just the perfect make up and hair.

Till date I have loved the Celeste Signature Dress from the Bird of Passage collection. It involves a lot of hand detailing like braiding, cording and hand basting finishes. I have incorporated subtle details of paneling and color blocking that adds to the minimal look of the dress. The silhouette of the dress is very bold and it elicits a pose that is both mentally and visually empowering. I personally feel this garment is an equal parts blend of glamour and minimalism.

Towards the end of my graduation I had already started working on my label and was mapping my plans. The first collection that I developed for my label Pamilone was a 5 ensemble capsule collection inspired from the cuts of a jewel. The entire range had glimpses of avante garde techniques, fabric manipulations and structural modifications. Noticeable details such as power shoulders, exaggerated paneling and contrast color blocking were absorbed in the collection. The complete range was made in pure silk fabrics using skilled processes of hand basting, hand dyeing and manual pleating.

I always look forward to work with a variety of fabrics and materials. Every fabric has its unique property which makes it respond differently in different silhouettes. In terms of platform I enjoy working with Adobe software such as Photoshop, illustrator and Indesign. I also use the software Final cut pro to develop fashion films.

I certainly prefer to work at peace and in my comfort space. The concepts, outlines of the collection and major elements in the collection are developed over a number of hours where I am completely anchored to my zone in the studio. Although being relaxed and focused is my planned approach to channel my creativity, I often find myself to be most creative when I am working under extreme pressure and with close deadlines.

The strength of my designs come from the extensive research that precedes it, I believe that a good research on the inspiration can introduce several aspects to the design. I emphasize a lot on all the other aspects like construction, finishing and packaging. As I see, it is the complete process that needs focus rather than a single process or aspect.

While designing I am in a reverie, completely drowned in my concept, the look, the story, the details and so much more. I think being occupied with your work solely is rewarding and intensifying simultaneously

The experience of seeing your design come alive is really enriching and reassuring.

A design should have multi-fold aspects to be appreciated and it should connect with the audience. Good designs that have the potential to be expressive are often successful.

The visual composition created to display the design is very important, that is what gets my attention first.

A designer is one of the key influential people. I believe a designer, can create awareness about the social unrest, can encourage sustainable practices, make people rethink their choices, change fashion trends to benefit the planet and do so much more.

Design field is pretty much changing always, through the fads and classics, conventional designs to contemporary art, the next ''new thing'' is always ready. What I have recently observed is that many designers and fashion houses are promoting their products to be long lasting and versatile as a process of encouraging slow and sustainable fashion, which is definitely the need of the hour. Fast fashion is being rushed out of market fearing the massive heaps of wastage. Looking at the pace of development across industries in the world, the future of design seems to be getting very user defined. The creators are now giving more thought to the probable responses from the consumers prior to the production. A noticeable change can be felt in the current industry trends that indicate a positive future.

My design inspiration comes from around me. My work is influenced by nature, architectural structures and people. To explore my creativity, I love to travel solo. It gives me an uninterrupted space to observe everything around me. I have several dialogues within my mind to understand the beauty of a place or a structure. I believe my inquisitive nature is my foremost source of inspiration.

I find beauty in simplicity. I have learnt from the beautiful creations of nature that the complexities of structure when enveloped in simplicity, astonishes the admirers. I love to design pieces that are not easy to comprehend but that look effortless and sharp.

From my experience I would like to share that designing comes from within, but good designs are created only when you are aware of your surroundings. Being relevant is as important as being creative while designing. Young designers often have to struggle in the industry to create their identity but it essential to remember that failure teaches alternative and better approaches. As a designer one must always remember that art is for self-expression, design is for expressive creations. It is important to be smart and take as much experience possible by working with different individuals and organizations. Constant learning from personal experience as well as borrowed experience gives a designer a better vision.

I aim to maintain a semblance of simplicity in all my designs. I trust the ‘less is more’ philosophy and seek to achieve visual minimalism it in all my designs whilst being true to the inspiration.

Power of visualization, enthusiasm, potential to work hard and a strong will are very essential to a designer.

Designing definitely is not a time bound task. During every collection development the designing continues round the clock till the outlines and details of the range are finalized. I prefer to work in a defined time frame that stretches over a couple of days rather than a 9 to 5 approach. Setting boundaries of time or scheduling fixed hours for designing everyday seems unrealistic to me as I believe creativity cannot be summoned in a mundane routine.

A complete process of design development for a single piece can take up anytime between a couple of hours to even a few days, it completely depends on the details of the design.

My next collection is in process and will launched in a few months. It reflects the uninterrupted rhythm in repetition and is closely influenced by the structure of corrugated roofs.

Anyone can connect with me on my email designer.pamilone@gmail.com for getting further the insights to my collection. For business related queries please write to: business.pamilone@gmail.com