Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin diseinatzailearen Random Puff 4D Brodatutako Arropa Ehungintza Mota

Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin diseinatzailearen Random Puff 4D Brodatutako Arropa Ehungintza Mota lana 2023 Burdinazko Saria A' Design Award sari ospetsuaren irabazle bikaina da Ehungintza, Oihal, Ehundura, Eredu eta Tela Diseinua Lehiaketa Kategorian.

BurdinaEhungintza· 2023

Random Puff 4D Brodatutako Arropa Ehungintza Mota

diseinatzailea: Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Bezeroa: MIT Media Lab

Burdinazko Saria A' Design Award Irabazlea Ehungintza Kategorian

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Webgunea Bisitatu A' Design Award-en Ikusi Prentsa-oharra Sari-bereizgarria

Koloreak

Diseinua

Random Puff 4D Brodatutako Arropa Ehungintza Mota Diseinuari Buruz

RandomPuff arropa isolatzeko 4D brodatuak erabiltzen dituen puffer berri bat da. Puffak hasiera batean lauak egiten dira eta beroaren eraginpean daudenean kupuletan sartzen dira. Aktibatutako puzkerek airea harrapatzen dute kanpoko ingurunearen eta jantziaren artean gorputza bero mantentzeko. Garapenak "zuntz aktibo" eta "ehun estatiko" arteko 4D brodatze-materialen interakzioen liburutegi bat sortzea dakar. Diseinatzaileek eta garatzaileek diseinu konputazionalaren tresnak erabil ditzakete azken erabiltzaileekin elkarlanean aritzeko, goi-teknologiako moda, pertsonalizatuak eta iraunkorrak diren ehungintzako diseinu berriak sortuz.

Aintzatespena

Burdinazko Saria A' Design Award Sariari Buruz

Random Puff 4D Brodatutako Arropa Ehungintza Mota Burdinazko Saria A' Design Award irabazlea da, ondo diseinatutako sorkuntzetatik espero diren eskakizun profesional eta industrialak betetzen dituzten diseinu onei ematen zaien aitorpen prestijiotsua. Burdin-mailako irabazleek beren sortzaileen trebetasun handia, espezializazio handia, adituen ulermena eta sormen-gaitasuna erakusten dituzte. Random Puff 4D Brodatutako Arropa Ehungintza Mota oso estimatua, miretsia eta maitea den sorkuntza izatea espero da, praktikoa eta berritzailea dena. Burdinazko Saria A' Design Award irabazi duen diseinu honek sektoreko praktika onenak integratzen ditu eta know-how-ari eta talentuari lotutako ezaugarri tekniko gaituak ditu. Random Puff 4D Brodatutako Arropa Ehungintza Mota zehaztasunagatik errespetatua den lana da, eta mundua leku hobea egiten laguntzen duten bizi-kalitatearen hobekuntzak eskaintzeko diseinatua dagoena.

Diseinuaren Atzean

Prentsa-kita

Diseinatzaileak emandako kredituak, taldekideak eta xehetasun teknikoak.

Propietate Bereziak: Random Puff is a garment application leveraging the puffy transformation that traps air within the dome pocket to keep the body warm. The double curvature geometry becomes easily fabricated, and personalizable styling is available through the computational design process, which opens up a new design/manufacturing space for a puffy garment.
Neurriak eta Ontziratzea: 500mm x 30mm x 700mm. However, since it's a garment, it can be fold into the size of 300mm x 20mm x 200mm.
Etiketak: 4D embroidery
Produkzio Teknologia: Heat-shrink thread. Neoprene. Machine embroidery. Processing visualizer.
Diseinu Erronka: First, the force balance between active thread and static fabric is a fundamental challenge. There is too much fabric out there with labeled information that does not necessarily lead to our purpose. Second, tension issues happen when new threads or fabric are introduced to the machine. It takes a while to calibrate, and sometimes break the machine if the thread is too thick/thin, or the fabric is too thick/slippery/crispy. Third, to achieve the maximized bi-layer bending, we want to vary the force on both sides so that the inner side does not constraint the outer side.
Ikerketa: Research background:
This research demonstrates how machine embroidery with heat-shrinking fibers enables existing fabrics to be augmented with morphing fibers.

Methods/Tools:
Similar to sewing, embroidery is a technique of interlacing upper and bottom threads with the substrate in between, but digitally. For the hardware, a desktop, hobbyist embroidery machine can easily execute wanted samples. For the software, I mainly explored PEmbroidery and Inkstitch for different purposes. PEmbroider is an open-source library housed in Processing that offers a procedural coding environment to generate detailed embroidered files at point and line levels. Inkstitch is also an open-source plug-in embedded in Inkscape that provides a graphical user interface, which is more friendly for primary users.

Results/Insight:
I started off the material characterization by testing different substrates with the same embroidery parameters. Out of 10+ fabrics, fabrics that are lightweight with high springness can hold the morphed structure better. A series of embroidery parameters were also tested systematically with stroke width, density, peak-to-peak distance, stitch spacing, and threading material. The fiber actuator can be tuned from crease(low res) to bend(high res) in a linear pattern. The fiber can be arranged in curves, origami creases, or arbitrary shapes to form more complex pop-up geometry.
Inspirazioa: Working at a NIKE shoe industry, I realized the challenge of transformation between 3D to 2D or vice versa. There's still no clear solution for the tedious, laborious, wasteful process from prototyping to production.

Working as a R&D at a carbon fiber company, I got to witness the power of machine embroidery, where it can digitally place fibers. This way, it can reinforce the artifact in any direction, replace the lamination thus reducing the material waste, and digitalize the process from start to end.
Proiektuaren Iraupena: The project started in September 2021 and finished in December 2021 in Cambridge, MA, United States.
Eragiketa Fluxua: First, a closed-curve set of circles, squares, or other arbitrary shapes is generated within the area of a 2D clothing. Second, the design file will be translated to an embroidery file via Processing, a visual output, and procedural coding environment. Third, upload the file to a desktop hobbyist embroidery machine and start embroidery. Lastly, the garment comes out flat from the machine and users can customize where to activate the puffs by heating the embroidery pattern with a steamer or iron.
Taldekideak: Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin
Skylar Tibbits
Jack Forman
Hiroshi Ishii
Irudi Kredituak: All IP, copyright, images, video credits belong to Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin.