Interviews with Britta Schwalm
Designer profileDesigner of the Day Interview
14 May 2025
After finishing school, I trained as a goldsmith. Following my apprenticeship, I decided to study design. After earning my degree, I thought I had to choose between both professions, but I ended up working as a designer and a goldsmith—both with passion and enthusiasm. As my goldsmith workshop grew, I decided to fully dedicate myself to the craft. Today, we are a team of three, and I also train apprentices.
Being a goldsmith feels like being rewarded twice—once financially and once with the joy I see in my customer’s eyes. Instead of creating jewelry and searching for buyers, I design exactly what my customers envision. This process is deeply fulfilling, both for me and for them.
To understand my customers’ preferences, I listen carefully to their stories and ideas. I observe the way they present themselves and the jewelry they already wear. This helps me craft pieces that truly reflect their style and make them feel comfortable and confident.
I feel calm and deeply focused.
Studying design perfectly complemented my goldsmith training. It helped me understand how design evolves over time. You can see these influences across different fields—from architecture and furniture to fashion. Everything shares a similar design language.
Right now, I’m completely satisfied with my work. My specialization in custom distinctions allows me to create a variety of unique jewelry pieces. Being present online helps more customers realize they can share their ideas with me, and I can bring them to life.
Luck plays a role. Keep trying, and don’t be discouraged if success doesn’t come immediately—it doesn’t mean you’re not talented.
I don’t have a specific tip, sorry.
I’m working on creating a steady routine, but every day brings something new. Different customers, different ideas—it’s always an opportunity to learn and experiment.
Some trends are significant—sustainability, for example, is essential. However, I focus more on micro-trends that emerge directly from my customers' preferences.
Good design makes me feel good, but more importantly, it makes the person wearing my jewelry feel great.
That’s a tough question. Sometimes, I instinctively know it’s complete. Other times, I ask the customer directly, since I create pieces specifically for them. Some projects remain in constant refinement.
Eve’s Weapon, a necklace featuring 110 diamonds in 750/000 rose gold. You can see it at the A’ Design Award.
Picasso and Leonardo—they were both geniuses.
In Germany, emotions often need justification. Translating emotions, desires, and ideas into jewelry gives my customers a way to express themselves in a tangible, wearable form.
I take a step back and listen to my customers' visions. Since they aren’t goldsmiths, I translate their ideas into jewelry that truly reflects them. That’s where my creativity comes in.
Humanitarian projects are very important to me. I regularly support organizations dedicated to helping children (especially girls), protecting nature, and conserving wildlife.
The award helped me articulate my design philosophy more clearly, which was incredibly valuable. Winning an A’ Design Award also brings visibility to my work and is a great opportunity to prove skill in the field.
Design Interview
14 May 2025 · Elysian Necklace
The Elysian necklace was inspired by the elegance and fluidity of Art Nouveau. The design integrates delicate gold wire weaving with a vibrant green tourmaline and a faceted freshwater pearl, symbolizing nature’s beauty and refined craftsmanship. The goal was to merge timeless aesthetics with innovative techniques.
The primary focus was to create a piece that captures intricate detail and artistic flow while ensuring wearability. I aimed to highlight the pearl’s natural shimmer through an advanced faceting method and enhance the organic elegance of the tourmaline with wing-like gold wire elements.
I wanted to explore new possibilities in pearl faceting while honoring the graceful movement of Art Nouveau. The idea of weaving gold wire in a lightweight yet secure structure allowed me to maintain both delicacy and durability in the piece.
Yes, Art Nouveau artists and designers deeply influenced Elysian. The flowing forms and delicate craftsmanship of figures such as Antoni Gaudí shaped my approach to organic yet highly detailed jewelry design.
The name Elysian originates from Elysium, a concept of paradise and divine beauty. It represents an idealized realm of harmony, much like the elegant and balanced aesthetic embodied in this necklace.
The faceted pearl technique is particularly innovative, as it requires a thick nacre layer to maintain its luster while introducing reflective surfaces. Additionally, the gold wire weaving creates a dynamic yet airy structure, unlike traditional rigid settings.
The challenge of introducing new techniques in jewelry craftsmanship, combined with the timeless appeal of Art Nouveau, motivated me to showcase Elysian in a global setting. I wanted to share my exploration of intricate detailing and innovative materials with an audience that appreciates design evolution.
Design Interview
11 May 2020 · Mystery and Confession Rings
It is all about Love. I tried to make Love touchable. I tried to make a mysterious feeling comprehensible and confess-able.
My focus was to transform an invisible feeling into a concrete shape And good design.
My plan is to sell the jewellery. Mystery and Confession will be produced individually for each couple.
Mystery and Confession are a spin-off of the Talibea-Collection. Talibea was founded in 2015.
Mystery and Confession are the answer to the question of how to show an universal feeling in it’s all-embracing complexity.
The jewelleries will be sold exclusive by me.
I designed this jewelleries to produce wearable emotions. Jewels should always represent emotions, I think.
Martin Schellhas helped me with the 3D-data.
Couples, Friends, All people that want to confess a mysterious feeling.
The design is hidden inside the rings. Instead of seeing it, you can feel it.
The name resembles the main function: confessing a mysterious feeling.
Pencil and paper, than 3D-data.
The symbol of love is not only at the inside of the ring - you can choose individually how many hearts you want to wear inside your ring.
Yes: Martin Schellhas. Goldsmith and 3D-Specialist for Jewellery.
The latest technology is used to make sure that the individually has cost effectiveness. Customers choose their ringseize as well as the amount of hearts.
I did it before and had a good result ;-)
Design Interview
14 June 2017 · Meaningful Heart Jewelry Concept to perpetuate emotions
First of all: sorry for my humble english.
The idea is to preserve strong and positive emotions. If you own a jewel that reminds you of a beloved person but you can't wear it, the heart of preloved gold-concept brings new life in the beloved jewel and preserves the emotion.
The idea is to preserve strong and positive emotions. If you own a jewel that reminds you of a beloved person but you can't wear it, the heart of preloved gold-concept brings new life in the beloved jewel and preserves the emotion.
Jewels are emotions. Jewels connect people during life and over generations. There was a long tradition to give a jewel from father to son, from mother to daughter. Today many people don't know, that these jewels can change their design - sometimes a lot, sometimes a little - but won't change their meaning. Nobody wants to wear old fashioned jewels and with the heart of preloved gold concept I want to show no one needs to.
I set up a homepage and want to show the many different designs, that are possible. Till today there are a lot of heart shaped jewels and I hope the award will bring a lot of publicity, so that there will be a lot more of hearts.
It took a while to get the concept straight and simple.
It happened by accident: I offered to work with the gold customers had and so I had to melt a quite simple but meaningful shape. Because the just melting makes sure there won't be any loss of gold. I recognized that a lot of customers were extremely happy tho know that they have the gold that took care for their mom or dad and that this gold would take care for them as well. And I don't like to do things twice, so I started to design different ways to shape a heart just by melting it. This was fun - for me and for my customers.
I just want to produce it by myself.
I like it when people wear jewels they connect them with others, what could be a better symbol for a connection than a heart?
Everyone - at a special time in his life.
I'm able to work with any type of gold, silver, platinum and even a mixture of it. The usual makeover of jewels has limits, of course. No goldsmith can take a tiny thin chain and create a solid strong ring or bracelet from it. I just offer to melt it down - let's see the color, let's see the the dimensions. But it'll be kind of a heart.
The name is the concept: heart of preloved gold means, bring you gold with all the emotions in it and I melt it to a heart. It can be a heartshaped pendant, brooch, earrings or even a key-ring.
Fire and courage (I need some courage to meld a nice piece of jewellery down...)
I can be changed upside down. The concept, once understood by customers, can be applied to a lot of jewels. Sometimes I have to melt a key ring from a lot of gold, sometimes I'm asked to melt a star instead of a heart and sometimes I shall try to melt the star sign.
No, as a trained goldsmith I have all the skills required.
Technology has a very low role, all I need is fire.
It was observing customers reactions over some years.
To make it simple yet flexible.
I had good experience before.
I learned so very much what life can bring to people.
The heart of preloved gold concept is a low cost-concept. It's an affordable design-concept.
Check out on http://herz-aus-altgold.de
Check out on http://herz-aus-altgold.de
Design Interview
4 May 2016 · Eves Weapon Collier
I love designs that need a second look. Is 'Eves Weapon' a modern necklace or a homage to an apple, to women?
The apple is the first food ever served and is a highly potential symbol for all emotions and situations a woman can face in her life. An apple stands for health, fertility, seduction, lust and sin. Think at Aphrodite, Venus or EVE.
The apple is the first food ever served and is a highly potential symbol for all emotions and situations a woman can face in her life. An apple stands for health, fertility, seduction, lust and sin. Think at Aphrodite, Venus or EVE.
I designed 'Eves Weapon' to take part at HRD Award and got nominated. This resulted in being sponsored 20,2ct Diamonds to build the necklace. That was what I wanted to achieve - to work with 20,2 ct Diamonds. To work with that amount of Diamonds is gorgeous, fantastic, magnificent.
It is on roadshows. From Milan to Antwerp to Hongkong - all over the world, what plans would I need more?
To design it took about approximately 3weeks. To build it I was limited by the HRD-rules - I had about 10 days and nights.
I designed 'Eves Weapon' to fit the motto 'A la carte' that was given by HRD.
If there is someone who wants to sell or buy 'Eves Weapon', please let me know :-)
I read the motto given by HRD 'a la carte' and was surprised how angry I got. I though about a pizza as an earring or a prezel as a pendant - silly. Then I decided to ignore the theme because I thought it was not for me. I couldn't. At a time I thought 'appelring' - this is a food made by dehydrating slices of apple resulting in a ring in the design of an apple. This was the start...
The inventor of the original 'Spannring' a ring that holds its diamonds by tension only. This is the perfect way to set a diamond and get the most of the brilliance and luminosity.
A customer with sense of style and an interest in unique design.
The diamonds are set by tension only.
What is the best weapon a woman has? The way she can tempt and manipulate man. For example with the food she cooks.
Pencil, copper, a saw, a camera and photoshop.
The setting of the diamonds. It's very difficult to set a diamond by tension only in such small apple-segments. It's possible if the segments are hard soldered properly and only with high quality gold of 750/000.
I worked with a firm specialised on laser cut in gold.
Without laser cut I wouldn't be able to produce the apple-segments in the consistency and quality I needed.
I researched in the Geek mythology and meet Aphrodite, Nike, Venus. I researched the symbol 'apple' and found the fall of mankind and the proverb 'An apple a day keeps the doctor away'. And I found Wilhelm Tell and his shooting at the apple at the head of his son. I recognised that the apple is a highly potent symbol- and the first food ever served, thinking back to the fall of mankind.
The challenges were
Working with the very high value of the diamonds
Working against the given time
Working with that high precision in an amount of 62 segments.
Working with the very high value of the diamonds
Working against the given time
Working with that high precision in an amount of 62 segments.
I got an A'Design Award in 2015 and had a lot of success with 'Glueckskind', so it was an easy decision to take part with 'Eves Weapon'.
I learned that my family stands close to me. Without their support I wouldn't have been able to finish the work in the given time.
Design Interview
2 June 2015 · Blessed Child Rings
I was inspired by my newborn son. He was so heartwarming to look at , I decided to make that feeling last by capturing it in a precious material.
The baby should represent an archetype, so that everyone can see his or her baby in it. Or even a connection to one’s inner child or a stillborn child.
I'm planning to realize bangles with the baby inside. But I have to do research first, the bangels should be in paper.
I’ve worked on this for more than a year. It was very complex to find a way of modelling a baby on the inside of a ring. I encountered a few setbacks before I found the solution. It was a newly developed 3D computer program.
It was my inspiration. Having a look at my son would explain everything.
I am selling and marketing the rings myself. I reserved the rights and am expanding my network of customers and resellers.
I liked the hide and seek game, the two rings play. And I like to design a baby in a clear and formal way.
I collaborated with Martin Schellhas. His work with the 3D program brought to life the design I was looking for.
Moms, Moms to be, Dads, Dads to be and Parents of stillborn children. Anyone seeking connection with their inner child.
A baby ON a ring is a quite new idea.
A baby IN a ring is unique.
A baby IN a ring is unique.
In German "Glückskind" is a person that has good fortune in life. The closest in English was "blessed child", which is not the same, but some words aren't possible to translate exatcly. "Blessed child" hits the meaning very well. And if you have the gift of life, you are blessed.
3D Shaper by 3design.
Pencil, rasp and a lot of time.
Pencil, rasp and a lot of time.
The wearer of the ring with the baby outside (Sam) has the chance to show how proud a mom/dad can be.
The wearer of the ring with the baby inside (Jamie) has a secret. He or she can decide whether or not to reveal the baby.
The wearer of the ring with the baby inside (Jamie) has a secret. He or she can decide whether or not to reveal the baby.
I collaborated with Martin Schellhas, who programmed the ring design in 3D Shaper. Also with "HMS rapid prototyping" in Germany, who are specialists for 3D printing in jewelry.
It is most important. I tried to carve the rings in wax to create them, which workedsuccessfully for the baby on top of the ring. But inside the ring – I wasn't able to shape a baby in the way I wanted. The 3D Shaper came out at that time and I found a way to have the baby in that shape I had envisaged.
I started only with my initial inspiration – to capture the emotions regarding my baby son in jewellery. Then I had the idea to have him inside the ring and had some obstacles in making that. At that point I decided to have a look if more goldsmiths had the idea to honour their children in the way I was trying. Consequently I saved the design rights and the name, as there was no previous design in that way at all.
At the beginning I tried to shape the baby inside the ring in wax. It is so tiny, I had to change tact and try something new to archive the quality I wanted.
I was sure that the design idea is good and wanted to have a proof by an international award. Furthermore I know that giving a present to a Mom for giving birth is most common in Europe, but not very common in Germany. So the international character of the A'Design Award was important to me.
I learned that a mother having a healthy child is a blessing not to be taken for granted...
A mother of a stillborn child is living in hell. And, to my complete surprise I have learned that parents who lost a child can experience emotional relief through the rings, as they help to represent their loss physically.
A mother of a stillborn child is living in hell. And, to my complete surprise I have learned that parents who lost a child can experience emotional relief through the rings, as they help to represent their loss physically.
Yes - Sustainability: The Your 'Glueckskind' rings are made of 100% recycled precious metals and are made in Germany.
Where does the gold and silver for the your 'Glueckskind' rings come from?
We can't provide proof in form of a certificate just yet, but the issue of sustainability and upcycling is very important to us. Jewellery on the subject of babies should in our opinion always be sustainable.
Herefore we make a promise:
All 'Glueckskind' rings are made of 100% recycled precious metals.
The metal refineries with whom we work have set themselves high ecological standards, so that the manufacturing process of the precious metal itself does not impact the environment. All companies we work with are based in Germany and are subject to German law.
We are happy to provide further information on this subject if requested.
If you would like a ring made from your own gold or silver, please contact us.
Please have a look at http://www.dein-glueckskind.de
Where does the gold and silver for the your 'Glueckskind' rings come from?
We can't provide proof in form of a certificate just yet, but the issue of sustainability and upcycling is very important to us. Jewellery on the subject of babies should in our opinion always be sustainable.
Herefore we make a promise:
All 'Glueckskind' rings are made of 100% recycled precious metals.
The metal refineries with whom we work have set themselves high ecological standards, so that the manufacturing process of the precious metal itself does not impact the environment. All companies we work with are based in Germany and are subject to German law.
We are happy to provide further information on this subject if requested.
If you would like a ring made from your own gold or silver, please contact us.
Please have a look at http://www.dein-glueckskind.de
Design Legend Interview
14 May 2025
I trained as a goldsmith, graduating at the top of my class. After gaining practical experience, I pursued a university degree in design. Becoming a designer was always my dream, and jewelry remains my greatest passion.
I design unique, custom jewelry tailored to my clients' wishes. My specialty is transforming outdated or inherited jewelry into something new. For example, if a customer inherits a vintage gold brooch with pearls, I can turn it into a pearl ring. An old amber ring can become a stylish brooch. I love redesigning sentimental pieces to preserve their emotional value while adapting them to modern tastes. Seeing the joy in my customers’ eyes when their cherished jewelry gets a new life is deeply rewarding.
Good design doesn’t happen by chance—it evolves through thoughtful development, considering materials, technology, and individual needs. As economic and environmental concerns become more pressing, investing in well-designed products ensures longevity, functionality, and sustainability. Design should fit the individual and enhance their experience.
I love creating jewelry that invites a second look. Eve’s Weapon, for example, is a necklace made entirely of apples—though you might not notice at first glance. Glückskind® plays with baby-themed elements, sometimes hidden for a personal touch. My secret ingredient? Designs infused with emotion.
Johannes Schreiter, a painter, designer, and glass sculptor. His ability to integrate glass design seamlessly with surrounding architecture deeply impresses me.
Glückskind®—a love letter to mothers and children. These jewelry pieces feature a baby either on the ring or hidden inside. The wearer chooses how to display their love and memories—openly or discreetly. In German, Glückskind refers to a person with good fortune, a meaning that’s difficult to fully translate into English. The intimate responses I receive from clients confirm the deep emotional impact of this design.
I would have gone crazy—unhappy, restless, unfulfilled.
Art should evoke deep emotions, giving a piece of the artist to the world—something that transcends language, space, and time. Design follows the principle “form follows function” but also finds its balance between artistry and practicality. Jewelry is where art meets design.
My imagination. I can visualize a piece of jewelry before I even begin crafting it.
Expanding the Glückskind® collection.
My Meaningful Heart pendant is a perfect example. It’s made from recycled gold, silver, and precious stones from preloved jewelry, ensuring no new materials need to be mined. In addition to its environmental benefits, it preserves emotions and memories, reinforcing a connection between sustainability and personal history.
The Glückskind® rings can be a meaningful way to remember a lost baby. Some infants are stillborn, lost during or after birth, or through abortion, and their absence is deeply felt. If I can create a physical token that strengthens a mother’s emotional connection to her child, then I’m truly grateful for that opportunity.
Carpe diem, carpe noctem.
Everything from traditional tools like saws and hammers to modern technology like CAD/CAM, 3D modeling, and printing.
Leonardo da Vinci. He was a goldsmith as well as a genius—watching him work would be incredible.
Albrecht Dürer also fascinates me—his striking graphics are clear and precise.
I wouldn’t want to talk to them, just observe.
Albrecht Dürer also fascinates me—his striking graphics are clear and precise.
I wouldn’t want to talk to them, just observe.
I’m incredibly proud of my awards. Being recognized through TV appearances and articles is a surreal experience, but it’s a great honor.
My favorite place is the Scottish Highlands—the light, landscapes, and atmosphere are breathtaking. Being there is a true escape for my mind, body, and soul.
When Eve’s Weapon was displayed at Expo Milano, I attended a delegation trip that included a visit to the Triennale Design Museum. During the visit, Germany’s Secretary of State for Trade and Industry personally congratulated me on my jewelry exhibit—and gifted me a bottle of fine wine.
Designer Interview
14 May 2025
I’m a goldsmith and studied design at university. Becoming a designer was always my goal, and jewelry design is my greatest passion.
BrittasSchmiede is a workshop where unique, handcrafted jewelry is created. I combine traditional craftsmanship with the latest technologies, including laser engraving, CAD design, 3D modeling, and 3D printing. One of my recent collections is Glückskind, a brand-new jewelry line inspired by babies. You can explore more at http://www.brittasschmiede.de.
Design transforms functionality into beauty. It should capture emotions—just like my piece Eve’s Weapon, which visualizes the many meanings associated with an apple: sin, temptation, power, health, and fertility—all expressed in a necklace.
Jewelry tailored to my customers’ desires—unique pieces that reflect their personality. I often study the jewelry they already wear and use it as a foundation to design something new that complements their style.
I love designs that invite a second look. Eve’s Weapon, for example, is made of apples, but that detail isn’t immediately obvious. Glückskind plays with baby motifs, some hidden for a subtle touch. Figurative jewelry fascinates me—like a woman wrapped around a finger or a chess set where every piece is a silver sculpture of a woman.
Jewellery for F. Stahl Birkenfeld/Germany
750/000 Gold
When I’m spending time with my son or enjoying quiet moments in nature—especially in my garden, with my cat on my lap, gazing at the pond.
Wearability is key. A design should be beautiful but also practical.
I feel calm and purposeful.
Seeing my work worn and appreciated is incredibly fulfilling. Once a piece finds its rightful place, I’m happy to move on to the next creation.
A design is successful when it evokes emotion and resonates with people.
A great design should offer a fresh perspective on a theme or concept.
Sustainability. Design should ensure longevity. I often repurpose my customers’ existing jewelry, giving it new life. All the gold I use is 100% recycled.
I believe and hope design continues to move toward responsibility—whether it’s for nature, humanity, or ethical sourcing.
Eve’s Weapon was exhibited at Expo Milan, then in Antwerp, Belgium, before going on a worldwide roadshow. Glückskind was showcased at the Parallax Art Fair in London, IHM Munich, and later at Seele trifft Gold in the historic Villa Metzler in Frankfurt.
My creativity flows best when I sit at my workstation and let my hands take over—I stop thinking and simply create.
I love figurative design. The human body is an incredible creation, and incorporating its form into jewelry is an exciting challenge.
I live in Germany, and though I’m sure my designs reflect a German aesthetic, I can’t quite define how. Designing here is easy—no major restrictions or limitations.
My designs, including Glückskind, are primarily for individual clients. I’ve rarely collaborated with companies so far.
I visualize my designs before creating them. At some point, the final image appears in my mind—that’s when I know it’s ready. The challenge is figuring out how to bring it to life.
A painting by Prof. Schreiter, a large wooden bowl by Thomas Pildner, a spotted teapot, a glass sculpture Nike (which I created).
Every day is different—I’m a mom to an amazing young boy, which makes time my most valuable resource.
Follow your own path. Don’t try to imitate others.
The upside: If something around me is ugly, I can change it. The downside: There are so many things I’d love to redesign, but I can’t change everything.
Perfection—in every detail.
Passion, patience, and perseverance.
Rasp, drill, saw pencils and a 3D CAD program.
Cape diem - cape noctem.
It depends on the design, but typically around three weeks.
How did you do it? :-)
Designing and crafting Eve’s Weapon—a necklace in 750/000 rose and white gold, set with 110 diamonds. It was nominated for the HRD award and truly shaped my career.
Carving figures from wax, sculpting in gold, setting gemstones, sketching jewelry designs—I love every aspect of being a goldsmith.
Winning the A’Design Gold Award! My ongoing project Herz aus Altgold continues, and Glückskind will take its next big step.
Mostly alone, though for Glückskind, I collaborate with a 3D design expert.
Have a look at http://www.brittasschmiede.de/herz-aus-altgold/
Have a look at http://www.brittasschmiede.de/sterenenkind/
Have a look at http://www.brittasschmiede.de/sterenenkind/
Britta Schwalm
britta@brittasschmiede.de
+49 6103 280306
britta@brittasschmiede.de
+49 6103 280306
Grand Interview
22 October 2025 · Elysian Necklace
Pearl Faceting and LuminosityThe newly developed faceting technique is based on the targeted processing of the outer nacre layer, which must be particularly thick and homogeneous in freshwater pearls. The faceted surface creates light refractions that do not obscure the pearl's natural shimmer, but rather enhance it. The result is a more vibrant, almost crystalline luminosity that casts the pearl in a new artistic light – without losing its organic character.
Art Nouveau as a Design BridgeWhat fascinates me about Art Nouveau is the combination of natural motifs and flowing ornamentation. The movement was both radical and poetic – and it was precisely this tension I wanted to capture in "Elysian." The wing-like gold wire elements are a homage to the lightness and dynamism of this era, translated into a contemporary piece of jewelry that doesn't appear historicizing, but rather thinks ahead.
Tourmaline as a Symbol of NatureThe green tourmaline represents vitality, growth, and connection to the earth. Its position at the center of the centerpiece—flanked by the gold wire wings—gives it an almost botanical aura. The color is reminiscent of fresh foliage, and the stone itself seems to glow from within. Thus, the stone becomes a symbol of the beauty of nature, framed in a design that brings this idea to life both visually and tactilely.
The handmade claspThe clasp presented a technical challenge, as it had to be both secure and aesthetically integrated. I opted for a solution that harmonizes with the round wire and blends organically with the line of the chain. Manufacturing required precision and patience – but the result is a clasp that not only functions but is part of the overall aesthetic.
Sustainable LuxuryFor me, sustainability begins with the choice of materials. 18ct yellow gold not only offers optimal processing properties, but is also durable and retains its value. The gold was obtained from recycled gold. The tourmaline comes from a trusted source. "Elysian" stands for luxury that doesn't come at the expense of the environment or people.
Wire weaving as an expression of movementThe gold wire weaving arose from the desire to combine structure and lightness. I experimented with different wire thicknesses and weaving angles until I achieved a form that was stable enough for the gemstone setting while simultaneously creating a visual dynamic. The technique is inspired by textile structures, but translated into metal—a play with material boundaries.
From idea to executionThe initial sketch already showed the combination of tourmaline and pearl, but its implementation required many intermediate steps. The faceted pearl was an experimental component that only achieved the desired effect after several attempts. The gold wire setting was adjusted several times until it held the gemstones securely while conveying the desired lightness. The finished centerpiece is the result of design, craftsmanship, and research.
Influence on future trends"Elysian" demonstrates that classic elegance and technical innovation are not mutually exclusive. The combination of new processing techniques and historical design elements could provide impetus for a jewelry aesthetic that is more closely aligned with material research and sustainability – without losing the emotional value that jewelry traditionally carries.
Expanding BoundariesThe faceted pearl was a step beyond the boundaries of classic goldsmithing techniques. The woven wire setting also presented new challenges in terms of precision and stability. These challenges allowed me to grow as a designer – not only technically but also conceptually. I learned that innovation often begins where the material seems to contradict itself.
Philosophy of BalanceFor me, harmony in jewelry design arises from the interplay of color, form, and material. Tourmaline adds depth, pearl adds light, and gold unites both. I work with contrasts, but never with contradictions. "Elysian" is an attempt to create balance—between nature and technology, between history and the present, between jewelry and meaning.
Grand Interview
22 November 2024 · Mystery and Confession Rings
The journey began with a desire to create jewelry that not only symbolizes love but also evokes a deep emotional connection. The idea of embedding hearts within the rings came from the concept of hidden emotions and the beauty of intimate secrets. This design allows wearers to carry a piece of their emotions with them, creating a personal and meaningful connection to the jewelry.
Combining traditional craftsmanship with modern 3D printing technology allowed for greater precision and creativity in the design process. The 3D printing technology enabled us to create intricate heart motifs that would be difficult to achieve with traditional methods alone. This blend of techniques allowed for a seamless integration of detailed design elements, resulting in a final product that is both beautifully crafted and innovative.
The inspiration for the two variations came from the idea of hidden versus expressed emotions. The Mystery Ring, with hearts concealed inside, represents the intimate, personal emotions that are kept close to the heart. The Confession Ring, with hearts displayed on the exterior, symbolizes emotions that are openly expressed and shared. This duality allows wearers to choose a ring that best represents their personal style and emotional expression.
The recognition at the A' Design Award reflects our vision of creating jewelry that goes beyond mere adornment and fosters a deeper emotional connection. By embedding hearts within the rings, we aim to create pieces that resonate with the wearer's emotions and memories. This achievement validates our approach to designing jewelry that is not only aesthetically pleasing but also emotionally meaningful.
One of the main technical challenges was ensuring that the hearts were positioned precisely to create the desired visual and emotional impact without compromising comfort. Achieving this required careful planning and testing to determine the optimal placement of the hearts. Additionally, we had to ensure that the rings were comfortable to wear, which involved balancing the weight and thickness of the design to prevent any discomfort for the wearer.
The adaptability of the rings, with variable numbers of hearts, allows for a highly personalized experience. Each wearer can choose the number of hearts that best represents their unique story and emotions. This customization adds a layer of personal significance, making the rings not only a piece of jewelry but also a reflection of the wearer's individuality and emotional journey.
My experience in upcycling and custom jewelry design played a crucial role in developing the sustainable and personalized aspects of the Mystery and Confession Rings. By using upcycled materials and offering customization options, we are able to create unique pieces that are both environmentally friendly and deeply personal. This approach allows us to honor the past while creating something new and meaningful for the future.
The Mystery and Confession Rings represent an evolution from the Glueckskind-rings concept by focusing on the symbolism of hearts rather than babies. The insights from the Glueckskind-rings project, such as the importance of personalization and emotional connection, influenced the new design direction. We aimed to create rings that could be worn by a wider audience while still maintaining the intimate and meaningful qualities of the original concept.
The development process for the Mystery and Confession Rings pushed boundaries in jewelry design and manufacturing by combining advanced 3D printing technology with traditional craftsmanship. This allowed us to create intricate heart motifs with precision and detail that would be difficult to achieve with traditional methods alone. The patented design reflects our commitment to innovation and our desire to create unique, emotionally resonant pieces.
Looking ahead, we aim to expand the customization options to allow wearers to further personalize their rings, ensuring that each piece remains unique and emotionally resonant. We plan to implement the Mystery and Confession Rings concept into our 3D generator on our website where customers can create their personal ring and even see it worn on a semitransparent hand.
Grand Interview
22 November 2024 · Glueckskind Charms
The emotional journey began with my own experiences as a mother and the deep bond I share with my son. I wanted to create jewelry that captures this connection in a way that resonates with other mothers. The three distinct designs of Glueckskind Charms reflect different facets of maternal love, from the openly displayed joy to the intimate, hidden bond that a mother feels. Each design is meant to symbolize the unique and profound connection between a mother and her child.
The challenge was to create designs that are both elegant and deeply meaningful without falling into the trap of being overly sentimental or kitschy. We achieved this by focusing on clean, simple lines and timeless forms. By keeping the baby figures gender-neutral and avoiding overly detailed facial features, we maintained a level of sophistication and universality. This approach allows the pieces to convey their emotional significance subtly and gracefully.
Using 3Design software and 3Shaper allowed us to achieve a high level of precision and detail in the baby forms that would be challenging with traditional methods alone. These technologies enabled us to create intricate, delicate designs with exact proportions and fine details. Once the digital design was perfected, traditional goldsmith techniques were employed to bring the pieces to life, ensuring they met the high standards of craftsmanship and durability.
The inspiration came from the idea of hidden emotions and the private, intimate bond that a mother shares with her child. By hiding the baby within the charm, we create a special secret that only the wearer knows about. This design adds an element of personal connection and intimacy, making the piece even more meaningful to the mother who wears it.
Receiving recognition from the A' Design Award jury has been incredibly validating and has reinforced our commitment to creating meaningful, emotionally engaging jewelry. It has encouraged us to continue exploring innovative designs that resonate deeply with our clients. This recognition has also inspired us to push the boundaries of traditional jewelry design, blending emotion, artistry, and technology in new and exciting ways.
The adaptability of Glueckskind Charms is central to our vision of creating personal and meaningful keepsakes. Offering various materials such as gold, silver, and platinum, as well as customization options like engravings and gemstone settings, allows each piece to be tailored to the individual wearer's story and preferences. This versatility ensures that every charm is unique and deeply personal, enhancing the emotional connection between the jewelry and its wearer.
Keeping the baby's features neutral was a deliberate decision to ensure the charms could connect with a broader audience. This choice reflects our philosophy that jewelry should be a personal and emotional experience for the wearer. By avoiding specific facial features, we allow each mother to project her own emotions and memories onto the piece, making it a more meaningful and universal symbol of maternal love.
One unexpected discovery was how challenging it was to achieve the perfect balance between the detailed digital design and the handcrafted finishing. Ensuring that the intricate details created through 3D printing were preserved during the hand polishing process required meticulous attention to detail and a lot of trial and error. Another challenge was integrating customization options like engravings and gemstones without compromising the integrity and aesthetics of the original design.
The addition of gemstone settings and engravings allows each charm to tell a unique story. Whether it's a birthstone, a meaningful date, or a special message, these elements add a personal touch that transforms the charm into a deeply significant keepsake. This level of personalization ensures that each piece is not just a piece of jewelry, but a tangible representation of the wearer's personal journey and connection with their child.
Moving forward, we aim to enhance the customer experience by integrating the Glueckskind Charm into our 3D generator on the website. This will allow customers to fully customize their charms and visualizing them in real-time. By focusing on improving the personalization experience without introducing new materials, we ensure that each piece remains deeply meaningful and unique to the wearer.
Grand Interview
21 November 2024 · Meaningful Heart Jewelry Concept to perpetuate emotions
The pivotal moment came when a customer approached me with a piece of unworn gold jewelry that held deep sentimental value but was no longer worn due to its outdated style. She wanted to preserve the memories associated with it but also desired a piece she could wear. This inspired me to create the Meaningful Heart Jewelry Concept, where cherished heirlooms are transformed into beautiful, wearable art while preserving their emotional significance.
Our melting process involves carefully analyzing the material to ensure its purity and then melting it down to form a new heart-shaped piece. Throughout this process, we maintain the integrity of the original gold, ensuring that the emotional value remains intact. We do this by intensively consulting with each individual customer about how the new heart should be shaped and what should be retained from the previous piece. The new heart shape not only gives the piece a fresh, contemporary look but also serves as a tangible reminder of the original jewelry's sentimental importance.
One of the main technical challenges was ensuring that the gold maintained its structural integrity during the melting process. Achieving the delicate balance between preserving the gold's texture and forming a visually appealing heart shape required precise temperature control and careful craftsmanship. Additionally, incorporating any existing stones or engravings from the original piece into the new design posed a challenge, but we managed to integrate these elements seamlessly.
The Meaningful Heart Jewelry Concept contributes to sustainability by using a chemical-free melting process, which ensures that no harmful substances are released into the environment. Additionally, by recycling the original gold and other materials, we minimize waste and reduce the need for new resources. This approach not only preserves the emotional value of the jewelry but also promotes environmentally responsible practices in the jewelry industry.
Blending traditional goldsmithing with modern design involves combining time-honored techniques with innovative approaches. By using traditional methods to melt and shape the gold, we ensure the piece's quality and durability. At the same time, modern design principles guide the creation of aesthetically pleasing and contemporary heart shapes. This fusion of old and new allows us to create pieces that honor the heritage of the original jewelry while giving it a fresh, modern look.
One memorable story involves a client who brought in her late grandmother's gold bracelet. The bracelet held immense sentimental value, but she never wore it. We transformed the bracelet into a heart pendant, made an individual engraving and incorporating a small diamond from an other piece of jewelry. When she received the pendant, she was deeply moved, as it allowed her to carry her grandmother's memory with her in a beautiful, wearable form.
Since its inception at the Gold Fever event, the Meaningful Heart Jewelry Concept has evolved to include a wider range of customization options. We offer different finishes, such as polished or matte surfaces, and the ability to incorporate additional elements like engravings or small gemstones. These innovations allow us to create even more personalized and meaningful pieces that resonate with our clients' unique stories.
When recommending different wearing options, we consider the client's personal style, the sentimental value of the original piece, and how they plan to wear the transformed jewelry. For example, a pendant might be ideal for someone who wants to keep the piece close to their heart, while a charm or key holder might be better suited for someone who prefers a more subtle reminder of their loved one.
We approach this balance by carefully listening to our clients' stories and understanding the emotional significance of the original piece. We then use this insight to create a design that not only preserves the essence of the original jewelry but also incorporates modern elements that make it wearable and appealing in today's context. You can't imagine how many different ways there are to shape a heart. And we also make stars or leaves :-D
Looking ahead, we envision expanding the Meaningful Heart Jewelry Concept by taking each and every customer seriously. Most of them have great ideas. When these ideas come together with ours, something unique and individual is created every time. For example, a cross made from a wedding ring in a picture frame. Going forward, we plan to remain as open, curious and creative with each customer as we were with our first customer.
Grand Interview
21 November 2024 · Eves Weapon Collier
The Eves Weapon Collier presented significant engineering challenges, particularly in achieving the precise tension needed to secure 110 diamonds without traditional prongs. We utilized advanced CAD software to model each segment and ensure exact tolerances. The tension setting required meticulous calculation and testing to achieve the perfect balance between security and aesthetic brilliance. This process involved numerous prototypes and adjustments to guarantee both durability and visual appeal.
The dual aesthetic of the Eves Weapon Collier was inspired by the symbolic story of Eve and the apple, representing temptation and knowledge. The side view symbolizes the allure and curiosity that the apple represents, while the V-shape from above signifies the path of choice and consequence. This duality enhances the narrative by visually and symbolically capturing the essence of the story and the decisions we face in life.
Balancing the multiple layers of meaning in the apple motif was achieved by integrating modern design elements with traditional symbolism. The sleek, contemporary lines of the collier, combined with the intricate tension setting of the diamonds, create a piece that is both visually striking and deeply meaningful. The design subtly incorporates the themes of love, temptation, and power, allowing the wearer to connect with the piece on a personal level while maintaining a modern aesthetic.
Crafting each of the 62 segments involved a meticulous process of design, testing, and assembly. Each segment was individually crafted and tested to ensure that it met the precise requirements for tension setting. The segments were then carefully assembled to create a seamless and flexible structure that adapts to the wearer's movements. The visual effect was achieved by ensuring that each diamond is positioned to catch the light perfectly, enhancing the collier's brilliance and transforming it with every movement.
Ensuring the stability and comfort of the Eves Weapon Collier involved a combination of advanced engineering and ergonomic design. The tension settings were meticulously tested to ensure they could withstand daily wear without compromising on stability. The collier was also designed with a focus on flexibility and weight distribution, ensuring that it sits comfortably on the neck and adapts to the wearer's movements without causing discomfort.
My expertise in traditional goldsmithing and modern design techniques played a crucial role in developing the Eves Weapon Collier. Combining rose and white gold with diamonds required a deep understanding of material properties and how they interact. Traditional craftsmanship techniques ensured the integrity and quality of the piece, while modern design tools allowed for precise planning and execution. This blend of old and new methods resulted in a piece that is both innovative and rooted in timeless craftsmanship.
The inspiration for the tension-only setting technique came from a desire to highlight the natural brilliance of the diamonds without the distraction of traditional prongs. This technique advances traditional jewelry design principles by pushing the boundaries of what is possible in terms of both aesthetics and engineering. By allowing the diamonds to appear as if they are floating, we create a sense of lightness and modernity that enhances their natural beauty and brilliance.
The journey of Eves Weapon Collier was full of unexpected discoveries. I just like apples. I never thought it possible that apples would inspire me to create a design that would win me a gold A'Design Award and exhibit this piece of jewelry of mine at the Expo in Milan.
Eves Weapon Collier both reflects and challenges contemporary trends in luxury jewelry design. It embodies the current emphasis on personalization and storytelling by incorporating deep symbolic meaning. At the same time, it challenges traditional design norms through its innovative tension setting and dual aesthetic. This combination of classical symbolism and modern execution creates a piece that is both timeless and forward-thinking, appealing to a sophisticated and discerning audience.
The most lasting impact of the Eves Weapon Collier on future jewelry design will likely be its innovative use of tension setting and its ability to blend deep symbolism with modern aesthetics. This approach encourages designers to think outside the box and explore new techniques that enhance both the visual and emotional appeal of their pieces. By pushing the boundaries of what is technically possible, the collier sets a new standard for combining artistry with engineering in jewelry design.
Grand Interview
21 November 2024 · Blessed Child Rings
The inspiration for the Blessed Child Rings came from my own experiences as a mother to my son and the profound bond I share with him. I wanted to create a piece of jewelry that captures the essence of this connection, something that mothers could wear to feel close to their children, even when they are apart. This deeply emotional design concept is a tribute to the unconditional love and enduring bond between mother and child.
The dual designs of the Blessed Child Rings were created to represent the different aspects of motherhood. The ring with a visible baby symbolizes the joy and pride of openly displaying one's love and connection to their child. In contrast, the ring with a hidden baby represents the private, intimate bond that only the mother feels. This duality allows mothers to choose a ring that resonates with their personal experience of motherhood, whether they wish to showcase their bond or keep it close to their heart.
Integrating 3D technology with traditional goldsmith techniques allowed us to achieve a level of precision and detail that would be challenging with traditional methods alone. 3D printing enabled us to create intricate baby figures with fine details, while traditional craftsmanship ensured the quality and durability of the rings. This blend of old and new techniques resulted in a piece that is both beautifully detailed and expertly crafted.
Keeping the baby figures gender-neutral and without specific facial features was a deliberate choice to ensure the rings' universal appeal. This design decision allows the rings to symbolize any child, regardless of gender, and makes them more inclusive. The lack of specific facial features also adds to the symbolic meaning of the rings, allowing each wearer to project their own emotions and memories onto the piece.
Overcoming the technical challenges involved extensive testing and refinement of the design. We experimented with different materials and techniques to ensure the baby figures were both intricate and durable. Additionally, we carefully considered the ring's shape and weight to ensure it was comfortable to wear. By balancing artistry with practicality, we were able to create a piece that is both beautiful and wearable.
Designing jewelry that provides comfort during the remembrance of stillborn children was a sensitive and deeply personal process. We approached this with the utmost respect and empathy, creating a design that honors the memory of the child while offering solace to the parents. The hidden baby figure within the ring symbolizes the presence of the child, providing a tangible reminder of their memory that parents can carry with them.
The research phase revealed the importance of balancing aesthetics with practicality. We found that the ring's comfort and durability were crucial for daily wear. Insights such as the ring's thickness, weight distribution, and the positioning of the baby figure influenced the final design. These considerations ensured that the ring could be worn comfortably throughout the day while retaining its emotional significance.
Customization options allow wearers to create a piece that is uniquely theirs. The rings are available in two different widths and can be customized to represent as many children as needed through different set stones or engravings. We set only diamonds (white or champagne in color) or sapphires, not only in blue but also in pink and other colors. By adding personalized engravings, such as a child's name or birthdate, the rings become deeply personal and meaningful. These possibilities enhance the emotional connection between the wearer and the piece, making it a cherished reminder of their bond with their child.
One unexpected discovery was the powerful impact of the hidden baby figure. Initially, the concept was to have all babies visible, but the idea of a hidden baby resonated deeply with many mothers. This creative breakthrough added a new layer of emotional depth to the rings. Additionally, the use of 3D printing technology allowed us to achieve a level of detail that exceeded our expectations, enhancing the overall design.
Looking ahead, we envision expanding the Blessed Child concept to include a wider range of jewelry pieces that celebrate different aspects of the parent-child relationship. This could include pendants, bracelets, and earrings that incorporate similar symbolic elements. We have implemented a 3D generator on our website (www.BrittasSchmiede.de) where customers can create their personal ring and even see it worn on a semitransparent hand.